147 drive shaft repair

Yamaguy · #1 08-24-2011, 09:35 PM

I was cutting the grass tonight and all of a sudden the tractor would not move. After a few minutes trouble shooting I found that the pin in the front of the drive shaft broke! I had my neighbor help me push it back to the garage and the repair begins...

I was able to unbolt the pulley from the flywheel with no issues (a 4 year old restore and no weather exposure is probably why)

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I used a Phillips screw driver that was the same size as the pin, and gave it a few deadly blows... to no avail

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I then hit it with some PB and let it sit a few minutes,and then hit it again (with exact precision I might add)

SUCCESS!!!!! OH how I love PB!!!!!!!

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So, now that I have the pin out, how do I go about replacing it? Do I have to split the tractor?

Also I believe that the pin only goes through the shaft not through the pulley, (it rides in the two slots in the rear of the pulley) Is this correct?

Thanks as always

Matt G. · #2 08-24-2011, 10:19 PM

You need to get some pin punches...that's not good for your screwdriver or the driveshaft. That second pulley isn't supposed to be there, and yes, the pin goes through the shaft and goes into the slot in the drive cup. You probably don't need to split it to get a new one in there unless you have difficulty driving the new one in.

darkminion_17 · #3 08-24-2011, 10:24 PM

Gee wiillicers,
Looks like you will have to remove the drive shaft to put that pin in unless you can support it from below from the deadly blows of the Big and I mean BFH,or remove the drive shaft and press the pin in using a vise .

westofb · #4 08-24-2011, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

You need to get some pin punches...that's not good for your screwdriver or the driveshaft. That second pulley isn't supposed to be there, and yes, the pin goes through the shaft and goes into the slot in the drive cup. You probably don't need to split it to get a new one in there unless you have difficulty driving the new one in.

Ditto on the pin punches, they make driving out those spirol and or roll pins much easier. I picked up a set of bostich brand at Lowes for around $30.00, money well spent.

I would also recommend that if you decided to drive in the new one with the tractor assembled (probably how I would do it myself), I would just tap it in, not try to drive it home with a BFH in a couple blows. Doing so, you would cause the impacts of the hammer blows to be transmitted to the bearings of the engine. The new pin will drive in much easier than the one that had been rusting in place.

Yamaguy · #5 08-24-2011, 10:33 PM

Can the drive shaft be removed without splitting the tractor? Not that it matters, just wondering. It looks like the hole in the shaft is about at the center of the drive cup, which would make it impossible to do with the shaft in place as far as I can tell.

Yamaguy · #6 08-24-2011, 10:34 PM

Actually it tapped out very easily after being sprayed with PB. It's nice working a unit that has not been together for 40 years. lol I am such a tool junkie that I am suprised that I don't have punches, but lately I have been liking watching the bank account grow more than buying tools!!

darkminion_17 · #7 08-24-2011, 10:37 PM

You will have to unbolt the motor from the frame,remove the choke and throttle cables,remove the turnbuckle from the PTO so it will not be in the way when moving the motor forward.You would not have happened to check out the service manual for this ?

Yamaguy · #8 08-24-2011, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

You will have to unbolt the motor from the frame,remove the choke and throttle cables,remove the turnbuckle from the PTO so it will not be in the way when moving the motor forward.You would not have happened to check out the service manual for this ?

I have an original 1971 service manual here (came with tractor), and it only talks about the driveshaft when splitting the tractor, no servicing info. Thanks for the tip I will move the engine to do it. Then the 882 is getting it's turn under the knife this weekend!!

Yamaguy · #9 08-28-2011, 11:35 PM

I finally was able to find the time to fix the 147. I made a trip to RF Houtz after work the other day on a parts run for a few things for the 147 and 882. I ended up picking up a new hardened pin for the driveshaft. This morning I was able to tear into it.

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I followed the advice from Darkminnion 17 and tipped the engine forward, removed the muffler and mount plate. took the belt off the pto, turned off the fuel, and took the 4 bolts holding the engine to the frame. Then I tipped it and propped it with a block of wood.

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This allowed room to let the drive cup slide forward enough to install the new pin.

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I got the pin in place with a few light taps, and it was too long! It would not fit into the drive cup, so the engine would not move into place.

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I ended up having to grind it down a touch so it would fit. It all went back together great, I just hope it holds...

Matt G. · #10 08-29-2011, 06:46 AM

What is that second pulley? That does not belong on there...