Have problems with my 1650. Trans not engaging. - Page 2

ol'George · #11 03-15-2017, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Makes good sense, Jon! I wondered if that mistake was absolute zero pressure, since the engine would still be turning the charge pump. Good to know!

You are correct that the pump would still be turning,
but the intake and output ports would be swapped, so no sucky/pushy.

But if the rotation of the engine/driveshaft were reversed, it would pump.
it also would go backwards the with directional control in the forward position and forward in the reverse position
-------I know, too much info.

But there comes a time when one doesn't know which way to turn
My ship came in once, but I was @ the airport.

ol'George · #12 03-15-2017, 07:47 AM

Ok, back to the topic, if you would do a search here on our site, and search
"Trunnion repair" you will see a lot of info on where it is and what it should look like, as it is possible that you have problems there.
As others have mentioned, filter/fluid is very important.
You mention you are "out in the boonies" so I think "rural" John deere has a filter for your hydro if there just happens to be one close by and yes it is the correct one.
Luck!

Sam Mac · #13 03-15-2017, 02:08 PM

If your brake pedal is sticking partway down that may be your problem as far as going forward or reverse. My other bet would be worn linkage and trunnion. See what happens if you pull up on the brake pedal. Just patched up my 149 a couple months ago, it had the same problem with reverse. Trunnion springs were toast and the pivot points were sloppy. Got some machine washers from McMaster to shim things up and all good now. PITA to get them in place with the tranny in the tractor but I was able to do it with a set of right angle snap ring pliers. If you need some of the washers let me know, I had to buy about 10 of each size, only needed 1 of each.

joetx · #14 03-16-2017, 05:23 PM

Thanks for all the info....I replaced the filter with a wix 51410. Didn't change fluid as I had added over a gallon when I topped it off. If I can get it running better, I will then change fluid and install a new filter. The filter I took off didn't seem too bad and the fluid color was ok and didn't see any water present.

Tractor responded a little better but not much. It ran better when I held the brake pedal up. Still doesn't have a lot of power forward and very little in reverse. The hitch does lift.

I can see a lot of slop in my brackets and linkage. I checked the trunion and at first it seemed ok, but after I cleaned the crud, I can see the wear at the corners of the square. The small spring must be ok as it holds the outer cups in tension to the outside of the square. When I push on them there is resistance and it comes back all the way to the outside. The big spring has play as I can slide it back and forth seems like maybe a little less than 1/8".

The spring seems to be off center. Don't know if the bracket holding it is correct or not. Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm seeing.

Will be taking it apart to see if I can repair it.

Can you suggest a supplier of the parts I will need to order? Good service, parts, and price?? Thanks, Joe.

Corner wear
[IMG]

[/IMG]

Spring/bracket off center, Is this correct?

joetx · #15 03-16-2017, 05:26 PM

I have another question....Should I be able to raise and lower the hitch (implements) while the tractor is in gear and moving forward? Mine won't let me raise or lower when I'm going forward. Just wondering? Thanks, Joe.

Alvy · #16 03-16-2017, 05:50 PM

Have you looked at your relief valves? Are they manual or automatic? Manual ones have small buttons sticking out of the top. Look to see if they are stuck down if it has them. Still a good idea to change fluid with filter. Did you check the fluid level again? Does it sound like it's straining or cavitating? Fluid you can see May look good but doesn't mean that the rest is.

Your trunnion wear looks normal.

Also look for sheared pin in drive shaft, it's common. Make sure that you're linkage is moving as it should, not too much goes wrong with these other than what's listed

joetx · #17 03-16-2017, 06:03 PM

Don't know if they are manual or auto, Will check when I go to the shop later, or tomorrow. Thanks, Joe.

Alvy · #18 03-16-2017, 06:09 PM

Look into the other stuff that was mentioned too, quite common

joetx · #19 03-16-2017, 06:17 PM

When removing the bracket holding the trunnion, I see a clip at the end of the shaft, is there a shear pin, roll pin, or key holding it? Once the clip is removed, should the bracket come out or does the pin have to be removed also?

If the pin is sheared, would the tractor still move forward? Sorry, but new at this. I have been doing a lot of reading, but still unclear. Thanks.

kalebevans · #20 03-17-2017, 12:22 PM

I can't remember if I bought my trunnion parts from IHCCW or directly from cub, but they're similarly priced. That'll take care of a lot of issues; mine runs like a dream after new fluid, filter, and the trunnion repair. I also worked on most of the linkages from the dash control to the trunnion.

The bracket that pushes the trunnion springs is just held on by the clip on my 169; I'd imagine it's the same on yours. It's much easier to mess with if you pull the seat and fenders off, especially to weld up the corners of that bracket coming out of the charge pump. Ideally you'd pull the axle/hydro out of the frame; you can decide which is more work for you as both are a pain.

If your pin in the driveline has broken there might be enough of a stub that catches so that it'll turn the pump until there's enough resistance, after which it'll spin the shaft in the coupler. If that's happening it'll likely get drastically worse as you keep trying it as that little nub gets knocked off. When you run your lift, is it connected to anything to put a load on it or is nothing connected?

Make sure those relief valves have full range of motion if they aren't the automatic ones so that they can pop all the way up. Mine had a lot of corrosion, and unless I gave the buttons a good tug with pliers they wouldn't seal inside and I had similar issues to yours. Pull them out, possibly sand around the button on top, oil them up and work them back and forth for awhile and you'll likely get them freed up pretty well. If not, there's a guy around that can rebuild them. Look up Machtech Direct, and I think it's cheaper if you contact him directly than going through the ebay account.