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#1
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thinking of a complete restore
im thinkin about restoring my 102, has headlights, cigarette lighter, 3 point, and a spring assist, ive already rebuilt the steering box is there any other key points i should pay special attention to, things that broke more then others, or anything of that nature? thanks all i plan to completely strip it sand blast it and spray it with a good automotive paint (not rattle canned)
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1872 - 60"haban 54" power angle haban blade '63 Original - restoration project 582 -tiller 147 - leaf duty with bagger. 1811 - Ditch mower 800 - have it just cuz its a 800 |
#2
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Sounds good! Looking forward to your restoration thread.
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Allen Proud owner of my Original! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#3
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I'm in the middle of my second full restore, so here are my 2ยข:
1 - Take lots of pics and video during dis-assembly. 2 - Group assembly nuts / bolts / hardware and place into ziploc bags with a piece of card. Write down notes about longer / shorter bolts, did it come from port or starboard, etc. If you need new hardware later, you can simply take the bags to the store and match everything up. 3 - Meter test your wiring harness while it's out. Repair frays, crumbling end connectors, etc. If it looks bad enough, consider one of the new replacements available on ebay from Porch Electric. Their harnesses look just like OEM and customer service is outstanding. 4 - Test your starter / generator. Good time for a rebuild with new brushes and bearings along with a fresh coat of paint. 5 - Consider matching your automotive paint to the correct Cub yellow from a rattle can. Makes touch ups easier down the road. Plus, I paint all the small stuff like seat hinges, carb linkages and small brackets with rattle can yellow. This will allow you to paint the small stuff moments out of the sand blaster (with an alcohol wipe down). The paint will stick very well and your parts won't sit around in primer for a month gathering dust before final paint. Primer is a moisture sponge. Paint bigger pieces like the gas tank, hood, fender pan with the HVLP. My cutoff for rattle can pieces is about the size of the air cleaner. Feel free to contact me by PM or cell if you have more questions, it's a fun hobby. Here are two links to youtube tractor restorations. The first one is a good friend's restoration of a Cub 129 and the second is the one I did on a 1967 Sears Suburban: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIAJH...7&feature=plcp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSBSzP9Aio4 |
#4
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you should wash all bare metal with metal prep. its an acid wash. it cleans all the pits and spots that are hard to get to. wiping it down with a thinner just moves the dirt/dust around from the blaster. the aggregate dust left behind holds moisture and rust bubbles could show up in a year or less. if you use a 2k epoxy primer that will seal the metal and wont suck in moisture, and last for years.
Ive been painting cars and what not for 20 years. doing it this way is will cost yah but it'll last another 50 years. rattle can paint is JUNK. but is a cheap fix when you need it.
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Doug Original / IH 70 / IH 149 / IH 1650 / IH 582 / CCC 1772 West Central Ohio Farmall & Cub Cadet Club https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/226681087497199/ |
#5
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thanks for the tips all, it probably wont be anytime real soon that i start the restore, i just sold both my 100s so she is the one and only mowing machine right now cant seem to find a deck for the sears 14/6 so she still needs to work a little longer
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1872 - 60"haban 54" power angle haban blade '63 Original - restoration project 582 -tiller 147 - leaf duty with bagger. 1811 - Ditch mower 800 - have it just cuz its a 800 |
#6
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Have you had any experience with Valspar rattle can from TSC? I used it on small parts for my Sears Suburban, including gear shift levers and the seat spring. Two years later, it looks every bit as good as the Matrix single stage I sprayed on the chassis and fenders.
More time will tell. |
#7
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as a matter of a fact, yes. I did the yellow covers on the deck of the 125 last night. I was kinda impressed with it really. it took 4 or 5 dust coats to cover them, but it flowed out nice. and setup quick.
this paint job was just a power wash and paint. (quicky) looks better in pic then looking at it. my.02 but im picky
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Doug Original / IH 70 / IH 149 / IH 1650 / IH 582 / CCC 1772 West Central Ohio Farmall & Cub Cadet Club https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/226681087497199/ |
#8
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Hey, that looks great. Where do you get your metal prep? I've been using a blue product called Metal Ready.
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#9
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thats the same thing. if it smells like acid, it'll work. I get it at my auto paint place here in town. and it blue. mix it with water. use a scotch bright pad. wash the parts good and rinse.
dry it off quick and get the parts in epoxy or primer. the parts will rust quick.
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Doug Original / IH 70 / IH 149 / IH 1650 / IH 582 / CCC 1772 West Central Ohio Farmall & Cub Cadet Club https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/226681087497199/ |
#10
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does anybody know what color my grille insert should be i've been tring to find pictures of it but it seems everyone just paints them what they want...i have it yellow right now (looks better then the rust that was on it) but it dosnt look quite right
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1872 - 60"haban 54" power angle haban blade '63 Original - restoration project 582 -tiller 147 - leaf duty with bagger. 1811 - Ditch mower 800 - have it just cuz its a 800 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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