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  #1  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:23 PM
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EarlJ EarlJ is offline
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Default Finally got a chance...

To get back on the 126 refurb. I built two electrolosis tanks and have a ton of small parts soaking. Tomorrow I will be making a makeshift tank to soak the frame, hood, rear and tower in. I don't necessarily want to strip the paint but really want to neutralize the rust and get the parts super clean so I can get some new color on them. I've used electrolosis for a while and it does a fabulous job cleaning the dirt and grease off the parts. They will be soaking at least a day or two. I'm really thinking on leaving them for 3 or 4 days as these are very nasty with surface rust and dirt. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow if I can remember...I can see some primer in the very near future...
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126 in surgery with weights, spring assist, 3 point and sleeve hitch
100 with woods finish mower and rear lift,
Nice 125 with super nice sweepster, 1782 Super Diesel,
1650,782D in surgery, 102 parts tractor..
3 Brinley plows, Brinley cultivators , rear scrape blade, front plows and custom built bedder attachment.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:28 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Please explain the electrolysis tank process for us newbies. Advantages/disadvantages, warnings, tips and tricks.

Thanks!
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:53 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Appreciate the update, Earl! Looking forward to your pics.
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:57 PM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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SSD, it works really well. The basic setup is a plastic tub to submerse the part you want cleaned and some rebar or other hunk of sacrificial steel. Dump in some washing soda (not baking) and hook up a one cable battery charger to the rebar and the other to the part. I cannot remember which is +|- . Google it, lots or tutorials on the net and even YouTube that spell out the specifics.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:08 PM
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EarlJ EarlJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaturnV View Post
SSD, it works really well. The basic setup is a plastic tub to submerse the part you want cleaned and some rebar or other hunk of sacrificial steel. Dump in some washing soda (not baking) and hook up a one cable battery charger to the rebar and the other to the part. I cannot remember which is +|- . Google it, lots or tutorials on the net and even YouTube that spell out the specifics.
Negative goes to the parts to be cleaned positve to the sacrificial metal. Probably the biggest advantage is no dust. Also the amount of elbow grease used is minimal. You can use other chemicals in the bath but washing soda is safest, its not caustic and bio-degradeable. One disadvantage is setup time, ir takes a while to build a tank for large items but the bath can be used over and over again. The process neutalizes any rust on the parts turning the rust black. I still recommend a light sanding after rinsing and drying and be prepared to prime quickly as surface rust will form in just a few days
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126 in surgery with weights, spring assist, 3 point and sleeve hitch
100 with woods finish mower and rear lift,
Nice 125 with super nice sweepster, 1782 Super Diesel,
1650,782D in surgery, 102 parts tractor..
3 Brinley plows, Brinley cultivators , rear scrape blade, front plows and custom built bedder attachment.
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2013, 02:24 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
Please explain the electrolysis tank process for us newbies. Advantages/disadvantages, warnings, tips and tricks.

Thanks!
Here's some links for ya!
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=12500

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=12733
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2013, 05:51 PM
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EarlJ EarlJ is offline
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Cool Epic fail

Spent the better part of the day building an extra large tank. I used a waterproof tarp for the liner. This tank will fit the hood, rear and frame so its perfect, with one exception. When i water tested all was good until about 1/4 full when the leaks started. Apparantly this old tarp isn't waterproof when it stretches. About 20 gallons of water had to be evacuated, so now i will venture off to lowes for a length of epdm pond liner. Hopefully soon i can start paint and reassembly..
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126 in surgery with weights, spring assist, 3 point and sleeve hitch
100 with woods finish mower and rear lift,
Nice 125 with super nice sweepster, 1782 Super Diesel,
1650,782D in surgery, 102 parts tractor..
3 Brinley plows, Brinley cultivators , rear scrape blade, front plows and custom built bedder attachment.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:50 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Thanks for the update and pic, Earl!
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My Grandpa's Cart
Craftsman Lawn Sweeper
Craftsman Plug Aerator
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  #9  
Old 02-17-2013, 11:01 PM
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EarlJ EarlJ is offline
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Originally Posted by ACecil View Post
Thanks for the update and pic, Earl!
No problem Alan, the two coolers there are filled with small parts once I get the big tank set up I can stop using these. Hopefully by next week end I can start priming and painting...
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126 in surgery with weights, spring assist, 3 point and sleeve hitch
100 with woods finish mower and rear lift,
Nice 125 with super nice sweepster, 1782 Super Diesel,
1650,782D in surgery, 102 parts tractor..
3 Brinley plows, Brinley cultivators , rear scrape blade, front plows and custom built bedder attachment.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-18-2013, 01:02 AM
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JK777 JK777 is offline
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What type of power supply are you using? And how many amps?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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