3 inches of circumference is 1 gear

Good to know. Thanks. Right now I am getting the fine splined carrier installed along with the new clutch. When I get it back, I'll install the underdrive. That should do me pretty well this season while I am waiting to rebuild the engine.

OK, the new clutch, driveshaft, fine splined rear end, and 20% underdrive is in. The three puck clutch really grabs. Any tips for slipping it at the start? The guy set it up to easily slip at the end of the pull.

Also thinking about getting a Lakota governed carb to add a couple of hp. Is it worth the money?

Thanks

To slip the clutch at the start just let the clutch out slowly as you would with any other clutch. You only have to move the plate about .020 of an inch to fully disengage it.

As far as the Lakota governor carb without additional mods I am not sure you are going to bolt it on and add two HP. Don may have a different opinion on this though. I'm going to be sending them a core to be modified soon. I hope to talk to Don Samples when he gets it.

I have tried slipping it at the start but it just grabs and goes no matter how slowly I let it out. Maybe it will loosen up a bit over time. Once engaged, it is very easy to slip.

My understanding is that the Lakota carb flows gas from the and jet and idle jet so more fuel is provided.

What clutch disc are you using?

All the carbs do that even in stock form. Lakota reworks them to flow more. But again without the correct cam and RPM it may very well be a waste of money.

What I'm getting at is..... If you are bolting it on a 4,000 rpm engine that has a stock cam and you are expecting a 2hp gain you may very well be disappointed.

OK, point taken on the carb. I am using a Zach Kerber, three puck with a red spring.

Without being hooked up to a sled it may not slip. You need some force acting against the tractor.

I'd say you pretty well nailed it

I guess I've learned a few things reading your posts over the years then Don. Thanks again.