I was told by the knowledgeable guys on this site that the 1862 axle would give me a better turn radius to go along with the range of the PS ram. I did pick up a better turn radius after the conversion even though I had to go to the outer hole on the spindle arm. The inner hole gave me about what I had with the 1811 manual steering. One thing that I lost on my 1811 axle was that it had bushings for the spindles and the 1862 axle doesn't. There is a little play in the spindles now but there isn't much I can do about it. Also the spindle arm on my 1811 axle is much more lightly constructed than the one that came on the 1862 axle. Remember that when you are stopped and in deep dirt or a rut, PS will still turn the wheels. That is something that you could not do with manual steering because it would be so hard to turn the steering wheel that you would back up first to clear the blockage. That puts the little arm under a huge amount of stress that a manual arm does not experience. Something else I learned from guys here is that the steering wheel "Straight Ahead" spot will gradually migrate due to the type of PS we have. There is no actual connection between our steering wheel and the front wheels so the "Straight Ahead" setting on your steering wheel will move. I still have my turn knob on my wheel but it moves around as I use the tractor. It's still nice because you can grab it with either hand without having to concern yourself with where and how to grab the wheel.:beerchug:

Oh..Ok. So, using a different axle was your choice..It would have still worked with the old one.. :beerchug:



And I know what you mean on the type of PS this is...One good thing about the other way, is that you can still steer the tractor if needed while the engine is off, or if the pump fails. With this type, the hydraulic oil will eventually run back into the pump..letting the steering wheel go free after a little bit of steering. :ThumbsUp:

You can still steer with the engine off, it's just very difficult.

Something else that should be mentioned is that you'll need the cylinder-to-frame mount from an 1862/1864, as the SGT one will not work on a GT, either.

Yes, you can steer..But after awhile, this type power steering looses the fluid back into the trans, and lets the wheel go free. Same system used on the IH 674, and many other farm machines. :beerchug:



What keeps an SGT bracket from working? Isn't everything past the tunnel the same? :bigthink:

No the ram to frame mount won't fit. I looked into it and the holes are wrong. Also, I bought the steering valve bracket from XMW that fits the SGT and it will not fit the holes either. I made it work by using the two holes on the cross member where the manual steering box was bolted. If you look closely at a SGT ram bracket you will see that the holes are different from a GT. If you have the chance to look at a piece before you buy it check out the holes first. On the PS valve bracket the holes were there but were not in the correct place and the PS valve would have ended up jammed against the engine. Concerning steering with the engine off, don't worry about the fluid draining because your arms will be so tired that you will have quit long before the fluid drains out.:beerchug:

Ok, so now I am going to need the valve bracket, too? :bigthink:

Chris is including all of the super parts..So I should be able to make the super valve bracket work?


I think I can make the ram bracket. :beerchug:

The SGT steering valve bracket is set up to bolt onto the side panel like the ram bracket but it will not work on a GT. What I did was to cut some of the side mount off and bend the left over portion to match the angle of the original steering box holes. The valve bracket is symmetrical so you can rotate it 90 degrees and the four holes still line up with the valve bolts. I bolted the SGT bracket on the valve and positioned the bottom of the valve just a hair below the lower frame rails and then put everything in place like the steering wheel and the lift valve and then I marked the two holes onto the bent bracket. After I test fitted the bolts through the new holes I welded the nuts to the back of the valve bracket because getting to them later would be a bear. If you already have the SGT bracket then you can just modify it without too much trouble. The angle of the cross brace is the toughest part to get because you have to test it until the two bolts go through and the bracket is laying flat against cross brace. Here is a picture of the SGT bracket and the part I cut off is the entire side mount holes plus the bent part leaving the four holes and a 90 degree piece at the bottom. Then I squared off the remaining piece and that became the bent plate with the two bolt holes in it.:beerchug:

Ok, I see what you mean now...But, do you have any pictures of how it is bolted to the cross member? :bigthink:


(This sounds like a job for IHinIN)... :biggrin2:

Yeah, I used the two bolts that held the OEM steering box in place. If you make a template out of thin aluminum or cardboard you will see how the bend must be to accommodate the two bolt holes in the cross member. The angle for the bend is determined by the angle of the steering column and the bracket bolted to it. If you are good at welding you could make a small piece with the two holes already in it bolted to the cross member and then place the steering valve in its proper angle and depth and tack weld the two together. It really is self solving once you get down and see how they fit. I do not think a picture will show anything but a black plate bolted to a yellow bar. One more idea I have had is that you can bolt the bracket to the cross bar with the two OEM bolts and then bend the bracket as you try to mount the steering valve into it. The brackets are pretty stout and need to be heated to bend properly but you can see the angle needed once you try to put the valve in the bolted bracket. This picture below is basically what you end up with. Make a trial bend on the two hole tab and try it. One thing to watch is that as you bend the tab towards the PS valve the room to put the nuts on the two bolts diminishes to the point that you have to weld the nuts on. I flattened the tab out so that the whole piece of metal was one flat piece and then moved the bend away from the mounting holes about a half inch.