Ken6x6, I used a Cub Cadet # 710-3220 from my dealer. It is a 1/4-20 x 1.0 GR5 bolt with lock-tite patch already pre-applied. You could get by with the same size bolt from the hardware store and apply your own lock-tite. I also used the belleville washer that Cub Cadet specs out - 736-0270, .265 x .75 x .062 thk.

I measure 20" even from end to end fully compressed.

ok thanks frank, im waiting for you to beat the crap out of this drive shaft so i can get mine.

1772 & 1572 drive shafts
 

Ok guys BIG thanks to Leadslingingdaddy he sent me a drive shaft from an 1863 it looks like it will work as a replacement for the drive shaft in the 1572 & 1772 as long as you have the Cyclops engine and pump adapters but both are NLA from Cub. I can have them made for you or can see if you can get them from the guys that part out Cubs. The 1863 shaft is 20.375” long fully compressed and the flange to flange measurement on the 1772 is 20.625” it may need a 1/8” spacer but I don’t think so. I need to check to see if the splines are fully engaged at 20.625”. Pics tomorrow.

hhc70

Looks like you are good to go as long as you have the adapter for the Kubota and the pump. Pics are the adapters my machine shop makes for me.

Sam, i was driving out to see my grandmother in PA yesterday and on my way i saw a 105 for sale, i stopped and checked it out and the guy came out and we got to talking cubs. he walked me around back and showed me a pile of cub parts he was also selling. i saw a nice iron rear setting there and a few words and a hand shake later i was loading up that iron rear in my truck. im going to see if i cant get this thing under my 1772. im going to swap all the gears over too. lets hope your drive shaft works with iron and diesel.

Ken

You may want to take the time to read this thread, looks like the cast rear has a clearance issue with the fuel tank.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=23475&page=4

Drive shaft should be no problem iron or alum.

hhc70

I got a chance to check out that 1863 shaft today. You will need a 1/4" spacer to make it work. If you put it in as it is the splines will not fully engage the ball in the center of the CV joint.

I think I can handle that. If I didn't have the engine adapter, I guess I would make one 1/4" longer.

i have read about the fuel tank issues. seems like its just the valve that gets in the way. ill make something work.