Why don't you try soaking/overhauling the carb. and setting it up properly ?? A lean condition will make them run hot. If it has the adjustable carb on it , it would be no big deal.

You could also check the timing. Does it have the right spark plugs in it ??

Does the tractor have the foam pads attached to the tank bracket and under the blower housing ?? Those are needed to help seal the blower housing to direct air over the engine. And yes , there is supposed to be a foam pad glued to the motor mount that the blower housing sits on. They are still available to buy or you could make something to do the same thing.

It is your tractor , but if the engine doesn't rattle or smoke , why not take some time and diagnose what the problem is ?? It may be just a good carb cleaning or the timing is off.

Good luck !!

You may want to consider something like this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sid-mt-pro

Then you will know if it is truly running hot and if it is where it's hot.

:bash2: Yeah, that's seems like a good way to check. Do you see if your oven is hot yet the same way?

Why does everyone think their air cooled engine runs hot? Of course it does. It's a motor, cooled with air. YES, it gets too hot to touch after running for ten minuets..... DUH! Grab a temp gun like Sam suggested and check it out.

You have three options:

1. Fix the Carb
2. Replace the Carb
3. Tell us that you concluded your experiment on how long it takes to blow up a lean running engine.

What are normal temp readings for the cylinder jugs while running? What would be concidered too hot?

Chris

Darrell, do you happen to have a pic of the foam, you're talking about in your post? If so, I'd love to see one. Thanks! :beerchug:

Allen , I knew there was supposed to be the foam around the tank stand , but i didn't realize there was supposed to be a strip on the bottom of the blower housing between the blower housing/engine plate until i brought home a 682 and 782 and both of them had it.

I just got both strips from partstree and put them on my 1872 and what a difference on airflow out the front of the tractor. They come peel/stick. I needed to do some engine repairs on my tractor and i had to pull the engine and i replaced them. You don't have to pull the engine to put the foam on the tank stand , but obviously you do for the bottom. It goes from one side of the frame to the other. I guess you could find something to place under the blower housing if you take the tank stand out.

I have a 482 that has a round piece of sheetmetal screwed to the tabs on the tank stand instead of the foam.

Best i can show you is from partstree , the foam is 14/15

Your not understanding what I'm saying. Of course any engine gets hot....but the mag 18 I had in my last 782 you could rest your hand on the side shields of the engine after 30 minutes of mowing and it'd be hot but bearable. Same with my 122, ford lgt100 and john Deere 210 This one after 10 minutes gets searingly hot. Like metal after its been welded or torched. Someone suggested the timing may be off....wouldn't that make it run bad at any throttle location?

Thanks Darrell, I appreciate it! I believe, it's missing on my 1872. I'm going to check the 782 tomorrow. :beerchug:

Lots of great responces to your problem however heres another. Did you check your muffler to see if its plugged with a mouse house or a rusted baffel thats out of place plugging the flow of exhaust gasses? A blocked exhaust will surely increse your internal engine temp and effect its performance.