It is not the key switch,check the grounds .Otherwise test the solenoid like Roland suggest.


Keep us posted and let us know what got toasted.

I got about 2K Res from the small screw to the metal base of the solenoid. Battery also shows about 14 volts.

NEXT, you can make this test.

With a jumper wire, from the Battery (+) positive terminal to the small bolt (#10) on the solenoid , does this engage the solenoid by you hearing a "clicking" noise...???

Steve,
I gotta ask,is your pto handle in the engaged position?Pull back on it hold it there and turn the key and see what happens.

I'm gonna be out of town for a few days. I'll get back to the tractor next week.

Jumper wire from known good battery to small bolt does nothing. No clicks and no cranking. Jumper from battery to s/g makes it start.

I engaged and disengaged the PTO a few times to be sure the switch is not stuck.

I know one should not go into trouble shooting with a solution in mind, but I'm still thinking I killed the solenoid.

You don't say, but the test you just done, is this with a known good battery put into the Cub and hooked in the normal manner..??? :Huh:

Yes, Known good battery installed in the tractor in the normal fashion.

Sounds like you're correct about the solenoid being the culprit. 2k ohms from the coil stud to ground sounds very high to me. You did this test with the small wire isolated (disconnected) from the stud? If you check and have 12v positive to the coil of the solenoid during the start position its time to change it as you are right.

I tested resistance with the solenoid removed from the tractor.

I voice in my head is telling me to rule out the PTO and drive safety switches first.