Great progress on the first day Andy! Keep up the great work!:beerchug:

I had very good luck with the Valspar Rattle cans on my 104

No pics :bash2:

But I got my steering column rebuilt and primed. Along with all of the steering rods.

I got most of the heavy sanding done on the fenders but I have to do a little bodywork before primer. I've also got some sand blasting to do on the grille before I can prime that.

Sanded a little on the rear but that'll take about a day's focus to really get it ready for paint. Little by little!

im doing my 1650 in all TSC paint , and rattle cans. I want to see the longjevity of the paint. I paint show cars so I know the diffrence in the quality.

4-Speed,

Then maybe this might help and here is the best way that I can say about what I've found with the "New" paints at TSC.

If you've ever painted the old synthetic enamel, think of this stuff as the complete opposite. Maybe its because they're going to some new low-VOC forumula or something, but the stuff just didn't seem to have the consistency that I was accustomed to.

Once it dried, I've found it to be durable. Just getting it ON the part and keeping it there seemed a little delicate to me. Please share your experience with it when you get the opportunity!

I'm gonna do my O with rattle cans but I will be doing it in a real painting facility (friends) and will do the primer with a gun and final clear coat also with a gun. I hope they can help me get the best results using cans.

They do really high end painting of classic cars there. They are laughing at having my cub done there. I told them it is really classing up their place.

yes , the only thing I see bad about it is all the light coats you have to use. it'll sag and run if your not watching. looks like crap untill it flashes and flows out good like an egg shell coat or like auto 2k sealer.
Id really like to see how it lasts in the sun. most all cans dont have a UV product in them and fades quick.
I to, am thinking about clearing over the sheet metal bits. urithane clear is 10 times harder then oil paint with hardener. rattle cans can use hardener. or it harden in the can .

I did a little painting today on the grille and a few "hard to reach" areas. I'm using some of the Majic stuff that TSC has on the shelves for the dusting areas. Then I have more of the Valspar stuff that they used to have at TSC, which will get the lion's share of the top coats.

i painted the grille insert with Majic IH white. It does flow out good but I will suggest that you shake, shake, shake, shake and shake some more on every can you spray. I'm not sure how long all of my paints were sitting around, but that "may" have been some of the issue when I painted my wheels. It seemed like the stuff didn't cover hardly at all. This time, two coats covered pretty well but that first coat has to be pretty thin or it'll run like a cockroach sprayed with turpentine! Looked good when I closed up shop, but then again, it was getting dark so... :biggrin2:

If everything goes well tomorrow, I'm hoping to have all the yellow painted. One thing I did notice was that this stuff dries SLOOOOOOW! Thankfully, we live in FL. It should dry pretty well by June 4th!

Hope to have pics tomorrow!

Got some stuff done today!

Most everything that should be yellow-- is yellow!

I still have to do some work on the fenders and I still have to paint the hood, but everything else is a nice, new shade of yellow. I'll get the hood and fenders and engine finished sometime this week.

Of course, here's the pix.

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...psff919e6b.jpg

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...psaa2dd0fe.jpg

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...pse15da9cd.jpg


http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...psd90a8dab.jpg

How about all the bolts to put it back together? I put my bolts back where they came from and bead blasted them with the part. I will have them there when I paint also.