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Group 44, clean the rear plate area real good, drain the oil and reuse it. When you pull the bolts for the brace clean the holes with brake cleaner and dab some Permatex #2 on the bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts and check them again after a little run time. Permatex #2 does harden so you can retorque it.
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Get a clean 2 gal container, put it under the drain plug and drain the oil. Then when your done pour it back in. Also besides the permatex on the threads put some silicone under the heads of the bolts. They do go into oil in the case and I've a had a couple leak with only the permatex.
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What are the torque specs for the bolts. I looked in my Cub service manual and I could not find them.
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30 FT.LBS. per the service manual.
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Draining the oil isn't a problem, but pouring it back in is a pain. Any suggestions on an easier way to put it back in, it took forever to put the oil in when I did the fluid and filter service.
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When Eric and I filled our 2072 the first time I agree it is a sloppy burpy mess. We got the rear braces and had to do it all over again. This time we set up much the same as first with a small funnel. The difference was I had some oxygen breathing plastic hose. I took about an 18 inch piece and threaded it down through the funnel and this time got no burps. It seemed to go a bit faster too.
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I don't know if it's the right way, but I just remove the fill tube and use a long funnel works great and takes no time to fill.
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Pick yourself up an electric oil pump that are used for inboard marine engines for crankcase oil removal. I use mine for my Volvo SX drive, worked great for tranny on Cub too. No mess.
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Yes an oil pump would be the cats whiskers. Attempting to fill through the tube where the air also has to escape can be a burping mess. My addition of the plastic tube kept the burps away but was still slow.
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