Only Cub Cadets - 1812 driveshaft questions

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 353727)

Rob

Post a pic of your coupler from the side with the pin and 90 degrees to the pin and I'll try to explain better what it is that I did.

Didn't you have a thread on it? I remember this repair you are talking about....... :bigthink:
Maybe you just told me about it in conversation...... I have CRS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 353728)

Didn't you have a thread on it? I remember this repair you are talking about....... :bigthink:
Maybe you just told me about it in conversation...... I have CRS.

Jon that was the CV conversion. I posted just after you did so go back and look at the pic I just put up, hope it makes sense.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 353727)

Rob

Post a pic of your coupler from the side with the pin and 90 degrees to the pin and I'll try to explain better what it is that I did.

Edit: I found a pic of the "Arm coupler" from Jeff in PA. What I did was tap the existing 1/4" holes for 5/16" or 3/8" set screws, I don't remember. Then drilled a 1/4" hole 90 degrees to the old hole for the spirol pin. Like I said I also put some Devcon plastic steel on the shaft to help fill the worn area. The set screws help to keep the whole mess for wobbling and allow you to get it centered. The pic is a replacement that Jeff in PA is making. I would bet that he could make one for you as I described, I would also make the part that fits over the shaft longer so that it engages more of the unused portion of the shaft. You'll have to measure how much longer it can be. In my experience there is around 1/4 of space between the pump seal and the coupler. That part of the shaft is not worn so a longer coupler will get things back to running nice and true.

here are my pics

Rob

Nasty twist in the hydraulic line. You'll see how much extra shaft you have to work with. I'm sure Jeff can make a longer coupler as I described above that will get you going. I'll PM him with a link to this thread to get his input.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 353732)

Those lines are NLA is anybody making new ones? any suggestions welcome

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdehli (Post 353733)

Those lines are NLA is anybody making new ones? any suggestions welcome

Rob,
I can make you a longer coupler as Sam drew on my picture. All I need to know is how much extra room there is for the extra length.

If you don't have a measuring device, use coins to gauge the opening. I'll need to know exactly what coins and how many.

1/4-28 set screws OK?

Jeff

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdehli (Post 353733)

Those lines are NLA is anybody making new ones? any suggestions welcome

They can be made. You need the tools..... if you don't have the tools, a used one may be the way to go. You might see if Rescue11 can make you up a set. Not trying to volunteer anyone, as he may not have time.... I can make them... but I don't have any extra time now. I can't even get around to fixing my broke a$$ stuff... LOL. :beerchug:

Used may be the way to go for you. Try the sponsors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 353737)

If you don't have a measuring device, use coins to gauge the opening. I'll need to know exactly what coins and how many.

GENIUS. Sheer GENIUS. :Bowdown2::Bowdown2:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 353737)

If you don't have a measuring device, use coins to gauge the opening. I'll need to know exactly what coins and how many.

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 353739)

GENIUS. Sheer GENIUS. :Bowdown2::Bowdown2:

The US Mint is very fussy with coin thickness tolerances. Different denomination of coins are different thicknesses.

( when reloading, a nickel is the difference in height between a .38 special and a .357 mag :biggrin2: )

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdehli (Post 353733)

Those lines are NLA is anybody making new ones? any suggestions welcome

I'm not sure about your area, but my local NAPA does all sorts of hydraulic lines and A/C lines.