Sam,

I have your thread on drilling the case bookmarked. I plan to do it tomorrow.

If there is a next time I will weld on the washer for sure. :beerchug:

I would be inclined to install a threaded stud in those holes if possible.
That gives me two chances in the future that I will be able to remove what is bolted on.
Especially if I can use brass nuts for the job.

Unfortunately you need to use bolts on the upper holes because that is the mounting point to the frame and the bolts go in through the frame into the trans from the outside.

I bought a 1440 a few weeks ago. I have three broken bolts. What causes these bolts to shear ? Been restoring Cubs for 30 yrs. This is the newest one I have ever worked on. I love the layout of the tractor. The Briggs is sweet. So these bolts are dry holes,,not wet ?

The biggest reason the break is that they loosen over time and no body ever checks them. The tranny gets to moving and bingo busted bolt.

The bolt holes go into the trans case and they are wet.

All done. Took me all weekend. All grade 8 bolts now.

The trick is heating the bolt boss,,while keeping steady pressure on the easy out.

Since these are wet holes, has anyone played with putting longer bolts in and nuts inside the transmission case?

While I'm not familiar with what the inside of the transmission case looks like, as a machinist I know for a fact that back spot spacing can be a pain in the butt. That process is used to make a flat on the far side of a part for a nut, washer or bolt so it can be tightened correctly without undue stress on the fastener.

How would a reverse twist drill bit work on this? The heat while drilling and the left handed force, would it help?