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x.bhamcb 02-02-2017 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123 (Post 408360)
It does appear all of the pieces are there for your PTO and better yet, it is NOT a safety PTO from 1974!!! Congratulations on your 149. I own two of those and they are an excellent "go to" tractor. Plenty of HP and hydraulic lift. Glad you scored it!!!

Cub Cadet 123

I'm not sure what 'safety PTO' is, but if it is anything like a 'safety gas can' I think I'll be thankful I don't have one.

I didn't really appreciate the hydraulic lift until I started plowing with it. I can't imagine plowing with a manual lift.

PaulS 02-02-2017 10:02 AM

As already posted your pto appears to be all there but not in working condition. It may only need to have all the parts in their place. Also remember that there are or should be two allen screws in each of the three holes. One with a rather flat end and the other with a pointed end. Both must be removed from each hole to remove the pto.

x.bhamcb 02-02-2017 10:06 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Is this the 'safety' design? It looks annoying.

Cub Cadet 123 02-02-2017 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb (Post 408375)
Is this the 'safety' design? It looks annoying.

Indeed it is.......government regulations in 1974.

Cub Cadet 123

Yosemite Sam 02-02-2017 03:31 PM

149's are also my "go to" work horses.

Be sure to replace the allen screws with Brand New Ones when you put it back together and put a little anti-seize on them when you put them in.

x.bhamcb 02-02-2017 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam (Post 408394)
149's are also my "go to" work horses.

Be sure to replace the allen screws with Brand New Ones when you put it back together and put a little anti-seize on them when you put them in.

I already picked up new set screws, and living in an area where they use salt on the roads most things get anti-seize.

x.bhamcb 02-03-2017 09:12 AM

I got all of the set screws out. They actually came out fairly easy once I got the dirt out of the sockets so I could get the wrench in.

Are there any tricks to getting the clutch off after removing the set screws? I tried driving it off with a block ad wood (rotating every hit) with no success. I'm thinking about picking up a slide hammer.

olds45512 02-03-2017 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb (Post 408471)
I got all of the set screws out. They actually came out fairly easy once I got the dirt out of the sockets so I could get the wrench in.

Are there any tricks to getting the clutch off after removing the set screws? I tried driving it off with a block ad wood (rotating every hit) with no success. I'm thinking about picking up a slide hammer.

There are two sets of set screws, once you get the first set out there is another set underneath.

Terry C 02-03-2017 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb (Post 408471)
I got all of the set screws out. They actually came out fairly easy once I got the dirt out of the sockets so I could get the wrench in.

Are there any tricks to getting the clutch off after removing the set screws? I tried driving it off with a block ad wood (rotating every hit) with no success. I'm thinking about picking up a slide hammer.

There is a locking collar on the backside of the clutch. Two more set screws to loosen and rotate the collar to release the bearing.

x.bhamcb 02-03-2017 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry C (Post 408476)
There is a locking collar on the backside of the clutch. Two more set screws to loosen and rotate the collar to release the bearing.

I was under the impression that you had to remove the clutch from the bearing to be able to access the lock/set screw to remove the bearing.


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