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GERKS 149 05-19-2017 10:05 AM

Tim-when spraying the IH paint, do you use any Gardner in it first before you clear? Whenever I have sprayed the base clear paints, the base is a dull finish and made to be cleared. The IH paint is single stage, but clear over it works?

olds45512 05-19-2017 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GERKS 149 (Post 421117)
Tim-when spraying the IH paint, do you use any Gardner in it first before you clear? Whenever I have sprayed the base clear paints, the base is a dull finish and made to be cleared. The IH paint is single stage, but clear over it works?

Yes, I use Shopline jh6002 hardener from PPG or you can use the hardener that the cub dealer sells with the paint. Like I said, spray the white and let it sit for 45-60 minutes and then clear it, this give the paint time to start drying before the clear goes on. The Case/IH paint is made by valspar and I use the equivalent to it on the Ford's we do with Dupont clear over it and have never had an issue.

finsruskw 05-19-2017 11:38 AM

Been using Rustoleum rattle can primer under Iron Guard on the last 2 Cubs w/no issues.
Sure is handy to prep all the small pieces as they are cleaned and sanded, then stash them until ready for the final paint job.

Randy Littrell 05-19-2017 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 420629)
99% of that don't mix brands crap comes straight from the manufacturers themselves because if you're mixing brands then you're not spending as much with them. I mix brands all the time and I've never seen anything bad happen.


I agree, when I started in the body shop in the 80's, we used Martin-Senior color and Dupont 980 and 1080 over it. We had trouble with Martin-Seniors clear coming off in sheets.

I wasn't sure the case/ih paint was acrylic enamel. I have been using what ever 2nd line the parts stores around here sells the last 15 years or so and have had good luck. My OCC still looks pretty dang good after 15 years or so.




Randy


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