Yes I forgot that part as I like doing it the better way.
Either way you have to get you hanny hanny's in there to unbolt the coupler from the rag joints.

So which is easier ?...I guess the other way would involve sliding the fan and coupling back somehow to expose the shaft - I don't remember seeing bolts securing the shaft to the rag joint coupling are there pins forward and aft of the joint ?...sound like a recipe for disaster for me...30 year old rusted pins don't like to budge I would bet

I'm leaning towards the engine - how many inches slide to expose the shaft?

Download the service manual here to help you fix your 1811.

http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/D...r2=2&number3=3

Jon had the filter numbers transposed. The Wix is 51410 and the NAPA is 1410.

Thanks guys..o.k - I.took a quick look at the manual and I think I understand what needs to be done now, should have googled that first !. Will have a crack at changing that lip seal in the spring!

Nice machine and welcome to OCC.

Make sure that something isn't worn in your driveline causing vibration to cause the seal to fail. There is a ball bushing at each end that wears and also the shaft can wear. I loosen the motor and slide them forward to remove the seal but before you do that grab it and see if there is any play or slop in it.

You can get the seal at any auto parts store. It is a National 471466.

Once you get the driveshaft off, and out of the way. Just pop out the seal, and install the new one.
No need to take the "cap" off.:beerchug:
https://s17.postimg.org/5ktvsc9rj/IMG_1313.jpghttps://s17.postimg.org/ajhe70ir3/IMG_1324.jpg

the drive shaft seems to be sitting solid in the bushings at both ends, hopefully just the pump seal has gone.

You would only be able to tell that if the rag joints are unbolted. Have you unbolted them?

I did not, I understand your point though. I was looking for large abnormal amounts of slop that I could identify with the joints connected. Will wait until the spring now and investigate the whole thing.