John, thanks for your input. I can see the weights putting added strain on the driveline from moving the weight of the machine, me, and my wheel waits. My property is wet most of the year (thanks Geauga County and your clay) and before running weights and chains I would get stuck all the time. Now I never get stuck.:biggrin2: In the heat of summer I might be able to get away with no weights, but all it has to do is rain about an inch and I'm back to playing in the mud.

I do try to take it easy on the old girl and take off slowly building up speed. She never seams to really complain. I am thinking most of the damage was already in process prior to me purchasing my 680.

What are others doing who have to run weight for traction aids? Is it preferred to run AG tires?

I would just continue to run the weights and not worry about it, it's taken 33yrs to get to this point so if you rebuild the driveline properly then it should last another 33. I would think the tire spinning and then suddenly grabbing would be worse for the driveline than the weights will ever be. This is for you and not open for disagreement.:biggrin2:

Never said a word about removing wheel weights. My question was whether or not the wheel weights were causing any driveline vibrations, because it's been known to happen. At least you're not getting stuck. Nice set up, btw!

Yea, and I was thinking any sudden slow down, or quick accelerations. But he "thinks" some of the vibration damage was done before he got the tractor. I know if I had more IH wheel weights, I would surly be using them!

Plus, I was trying to shake up Jon a little, but he won't budge! lol! :biggrin2:

Got the driveshaft and all associated components off tonight. She needs a new shaft coupling assembly on the engine side, a new drive shaft (deep grooves worn on both ends), self-aligning bearing (I knew that yesterday), new fan (missing one of the blades since I got it), and 4 rag joints (2 on each end). Going to spend a little, but I have no problem with that if the girl goes another 30 years.

Pictures for those interested:

Drive Shaft
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/...7ef64bf7_o.jpg

Shaft Coupling Flange (engine side)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4535/...25881c39a9.jpg

Nuts from rag joints on motor end. They are ovaled out :bigeyes:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4535/...456324d690.jpg

Some damage to the back of the motor where the flange connects. I don't think its anything to worry about since I am replacing the whole flange assembly...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4517/...f006e34bf1.jpg

Ouch! If that don't make it shake nothing will. The nuts are lock nuts and are supposed to look like that, DO NOT reuse them, go buy new nylon lock nuts.

Tim is correct, use new nuts, ask me how I know.:biggrin2:
I use this type nuts. Prevailing Torque Lock Nuts.:beerchug:

Thanks Tim and Todd. I have never seen that style of "locking" not. I'll use new nylon lock nuts with a little blue loctite.

Buster, once you replace the driveline you will think that it's a brand new machine and good for another 33 years.:beerchug: That is the issue that is shaking the ole girl apart. If you can't make your own driveshaft give member "Jeff in Pa" a holler. He makes killer rear couplings and an awesome driveshaft.

I've looked at the thread: Parts By Jeff, and don't see any rear couplings for this model......... or did I miss seeing them? I see the narrow frame rear couplings, but that was it. I had been looking for new front and rear for my 1450. The parts I found were astronomical sky high in price, factor in shipping on those, and might as well pick up a 25 piece bag of pins from McMaster and figure shipping and tax on this whole mess and I'm out the wha-zoo $145 bucks :Stop: The flange sells for about $23, Buster. Looks like 33 years worth of neglect, and I'm still attributing some damage from wheel weights. Been a while since I seen a driveline this bad.

Goodluck Buster. I'm near by if you need a hand, :biggrin2: