I haven't bothered to drill and tap any of mine. No other reason than I just haven't done it. It's not a bad idea.

I have a funnel I attached a large brake line to with a hose. The line reaches into the trans. Oil down the line, air up the tube around it. It still takes forever to fill it. Not one of the best designed fill ports. :bash2:

On the late aluminum case's Cub installed a vent. When I work on and early case I drill and tap them for a vent. I like to use one of the holes that the rear PTO bearing would mount to. I install a hose barb, some hose and a fuel filter to keep crap out of the trans. This was an 1882 that I did.

Thank you for the suggestions on how to fill the transmission with fluid! I have a few options to choose from!

So yesterday, time came to fill the 1211 with fluids. I had planned to start the 1211 by other means than it's factory system. I stuck a plastic funnel in the dip stick tube and filled the funnel. That was funny. Then, I thought of trying to fill the case by removing the auto release valves. Well, after removing all required tractor pieces, I really thought this was going to be the way to fill and was going about confident.

Removed both release valves, poured in the fluid and...... the same waiting game persisted. No luck here. I left the valves remain sitting on the bench. Tim was right. I had to resort to filling through the dip stick tube. So, I cut the top off a Pespi can, and filled this can about half way with fluid. This worked and went a touch quicker than I thought. I had to pour a stream down the tube small enough to allow air to flow back up. I did notice air bubbles coming up in both release valve ports as I was doing this. It worked, the case is full, and I can continue on with the 1211.

Now, I got to figure out why I lost spark. The mouse hotel above the coil and between the engine was a sight to behold. My spark plug wire had been so chewed up. When I did try to test for spark, I did notice a bright blue spark before the engine tins were installed, and I did manage to start the 1211! That was great. Now I have the spark wire correctly routed and no spark. Still much to pick away at.

One more question.

What was the air cleaner housing like in comparison to the Quiet Line? When I got my 1211, it was missing this, and I'm not sure it had the correct carb on it. The QL air cleaner housing does not work as it sits too recessed back toward the engine and interferes with the carb controls. Currently I have a QL #26 carb installed with a new carb kit.

Should be the same air filter housing as the QL tractors..... not sure why it's interfering with the controls. If the carb is from a QL, the filter housing should work. :bigthink:

I’ll have them look. For some reason I was thinking the diameter of the filter is different. I had issues finding the correct air filter for my 1200. It wouldn’t fit my 1200 but fit the 1211
I may be wrong but I’m thinking there was something fishy.
Yes filling the hyd oil is a joke! Took me an hr to get it filled on my 1211! Now going to change hyd oil on my 1864! This should be an adventure!

Lol! I was quite aggravated when I posted the question about how to fill the trans :biggrin2:

The problem I seem to be having with my QL air filter housing being used on my 1211, is that the Kohler Magnum engine that my 1211 is equipped with, seems to be much wider around the fly wheel housing. It's like the carb needs to stick out further from the motor because the air cleaner housing is bottoming out off the engine. The 1211 also sports an entirely new, or different bearing plate then the QL, that the starter mounts to, which is another major pain in the %%%%%%% to remove the starter when the starter gear sticks in the fly wheel ring gear because I have to remove the engine oil fill/dip stick tube to get the starter out.

I still like this 1211. It's pretty cool and I'm glad I have one!

It's apparent I will have to spend some money on this 1211 if I want to use it. Going to need a coil, solenoid, and maybe a relay and pto switch. I'm going to throw in some tubes in the front tires. A lot of other projects I need to finish so I'll be slowing down on this 1211 a bit. Here are a few picts.

How do I adjust for the up and down movement in the area the gold arrow is pointing to? Its the hood of my 1211, and I don't know if the movement is wear, or adjustment. When down, the hood sits lower than the top of the front grill housing.

thanks

Where the hinge meets the hood it's slotted. Loosen the nut and move the hinge lower in the slot, this will raise the hood when closed.

Without going out and physically looking at the two engines, (I have both styles) I can't confirm other than by part numbers..... but there are two different gaskets for where the carb mounts to the engine on the Mag12. One is thick, one is thin. Perhaps you have a thin gasket on and you need a thick?

The other thing is yes, the filter bases are different, or at the very least, carry different part numbers. I was thinking that the Mag engine used a shorter filter.... but again, going off memory. But I thought that given the right combination, the parts would interchange..... :bigthink:

*More below*


Yes, the Mag had a different rear bearing plate. Likely a bit wider than the AQS motor. Again... would have to look at them side by side...


Just a note, a lot of people replace the relay not fully understanding how it works. If the PTO isn't working correctly, *USUALLY* it is a safety switch issue. Make sure you go through the wiring diagram and test the system to be sure that you have a bad relay or PTO switch. A lot of times, there is a bad safety switch, or poor connection/wire in the safety system. Even the ground wire for the relay causes issues from time to time. Since the Mag engine doesn't need battery power to run, even a poor connection at the key switch can keep the PTO from working, while the engine will still start and run. Make sure you check the whole system and find the issue.

On that coil.... make sure you don't just have a shorted kill wire. It happens.