Hey guys, all good now !! Stuck test light into engine connector at red/violet, turned key to run then started checking. Got to the seat switch connector, as you referred to Todd and as I knew, it was disconnected by PO. I never worried about it since the engine ran. It of course ran because as I said above, the PO had removed the fuel solenoid.

Then I looked at the schematic and saw it's a N/O switch. Corrected that safety switch connection and...test light lit up ! Yahoo !!. I then placed test light into solenoid connector and lit up. So that diode is obviously not open. I do a good bit of electronics work as one of many hobbies and have a few organizer drawers of diodes of various sizes and ratings. And YES, $5 is pricey !!

So put everything back together and it fired right up and ran absolutely great in all throttle positions and idles low, smooth and quietly. VERY happy.

Thanks for all the help guys ! I really appreciate it,

Steve

It's not always easy figuring out what a PO did or why. In this case it seems the PO just didn't know how to test these things. Glad ya got it worked out:beerchug:

Very true ! I've found and repaired several things he did and I can only assume he either wasn't good with mechanical things or just a hacker upper and didn't care. That really drives me crazy when guys don't appreciate and take care of machines and repair them correctly, at least within reason.

Parts were missing I figure because someone was just too lazy to put them back on. I've ordered new and good used ones and replaced them.

***OR***
It could be that the original solenoid failed, and he simply removed it as it isn't a required part. Not really necessary either. The seat switch may have been unhooked because he hated all the safety devices. Personally, I only keep a few safety devices on my machines, if any at all.

Well I understand that and mostly agree, to a point. Some things I referred to were things such as an engine side cover panel missing, the dash/battery baffle missing, the rear deck rollers missing, the crankcase breather tube disconnected ! And some other things done that looked like someone was very frustrated. But... I got it for a good price and I'm not so much complaining, just don't understand why some things are done the way they are.

And you'll notice I didn't say I re connected the seat switch, I hate all these types of things caused by idiots and lawyers. The only safety left on this CC is the brake safety switch. Which is OK.

And if the fuel solenoid will help stop or reduce backfires and dieseling when shutting down, then for me it's worth having it in place.

On my previous JD, it had so many silly safety interlocks I completely removed the wiring harness and neatly re wired only so the engine would start and the lights worked. So much better for me. I did this right after I bought it new.

I know how I would fix it..... and it wouldn't involve diodes

I hear ya there J... : -)

A 1N5408 rectifier diode should be able to handle it - maybe a little overkill. I just got some for a different project, they were $ 0.26 each. The 1N5408's are rated for 3A forward current and have a peak inverse voltage rating of 1000 volts.

Frank:

Thanks, good information.

:IH Trusted Hand:

I don't have an issue with the fuel solenoid. I removed it from my 3205 with the Kawasaki engine and it does backfire sometimes when I shut it down. Now I wish I hadn't removed it (ground the tip off of it). I say, install the 30 cent part and be good for another 20 years.

I have 2 Kohler CH's and 3 Vanguards, I have ZERO working Fuel Solenoids. :biggrin2::beerchug: