OK, I know what the trunnion is now. Thanks.

Based on what you say about the backfiring you should go to the resource board and get the Kohler manual. Here us a direct link: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4646

I would get a carburetor rebuild kit. You can find rebuild instructions here: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4376. I got a kit on eBay.

My 1450 had a hardware store governor spring on it when I got it. I replaced it with a genuine Kohler spring I got from one of the board sponsors. Check the links at the top of this page or PM me for help.

As far as the thrown rod goes these cast iron blocks can take more abuse than aluminum blocks but I have seen holes in them too. You should disassemble the engine to see what you have.

Sometime in the late 1980s I was on a neighbor's 122 when it just stopped running. The engine spun down slowly and cranked over fast when I tried to start it. I towed it home with their 1000 (which I now own). When I tore the engine down I found the rod shattered in pieces like glass. After 20 years it catastrophically failed. That was my first experience rebuilding a Kohler that started a true appreciation for these engines. The point is until you get into the engine you don't really know what you have.

OK, this thing is starting to test my patience. I will eventually figure it out but maybe somebody can give me a clue first. It will idle ok but a little rough and then backfire and die when I throttle up .

I rebuilt the carb , cleaned the tank,[ love the plastic tank ] new gas line and filter, good gas flow to the carb, new spark plug, filed the points so they are making good spark and its still the same. Can't find the timing marks on the rusty flywheel with or without the timing light. I varied the point gap both ways a little and still the same. Although the points look good, I broke down and got a new set and condenser and now find that there was no condenser
on this engine. Is this the clue I have been looking for? What do you think ?

Motor is out now to do the cradle mod. Can't decide if I want to go with solid or rubber mounts.:bigthink:

What new filter?

Go with OEM rubber mounts.

An AWOL condensor is a big clue! Put the new condensor on and see what happens! Pretty good chance it will run better and you will eliminate a variable that causes somewhat poor running idle that gets rougher when you throtttle up!

If the engine is out, pull the air shroud and clean the flywheel so you can find the timing marks. Wouldn't hurt to air hose the crap out of that area anyway.

That is the fuel filter, twoton.
I guess the condenser should be between the points and the -terminal of the coil but does it matter witch end of the wire its on?

Yes I will be cleaning the flywheel and painting the timing marks.

As for the hardware store governor spring, I have the correct spring on order.

BTW, this tractor will be a worker. All go, no show.
If I ever paint it , it will be a quick hood dash fenders &wheels off, power wash and spray, with a little more prep on the removed parts. I have to many other things that need my time.

The witch might not like that condenser up hers!:biggrin2:

Seriously, just as long as the condenser is wired between the negative of the coil and the points, it does not matter WHICH end you attach the wire. It is important the body of the condenser is attached to a good grounded source for it to work properly.

Do you mean the screen it the tank? Just curious. I've noticed that whenever people try to add an additional inline filter onto one of these tractors, it always seems to cause problems.