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Sorry Jeff |
Here are the parts that will be used to rebuild the clutch:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0cf3557d.jpg First thing that needs done is to replace the pins and bushing in the 3 pin driver. Pins http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5ca1ff03.jpg Bushing http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8c3aa68a.jpg Reinstalling bushing: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psab894fc7.jpg pins: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4085e3f4.jpg 3 pin driver is ready to install. |
I like to take the 3 pin driver and slide it over the driveshaft to make sure it turns freely.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psa4b0c2fe.jpg I aslo take the clutch disc and slide it over the 3 pin driver to make sure everything is alined. I like to use brake clean to remove oil from clutch disc and pressure plates. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psac3efa5b.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1ef4273b.jpg The first thing I like to do is install the pin that holds the pressure plate hub. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9d6a5196.jpg Next thing to make sure the pressure plate hub slides over the pin. The pressure plate did not slide over the pin. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps01bdae64.jpg |
Right side is ok.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5f69bc01.jpg Left side has a burr. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2379e61b.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6689e65a.jpg The hub had a burr on the one side where the pin goes. The pressure plate hub now slides over the pin. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb98afe97.jpg The pressure plate hub goes on the driveshaft. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6b79ff44.jpg Next is the clutch friction disc. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps031429a7.jpg Next is the locating pressure assembly and drive pin into place. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc27b0663.jpg |
I will install the 3 pin driver to drive shaft to check if everything spins freely.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps48ca0886.jpg Plus it centers the friction disc. I will check the clutch lever for wear. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8aa6ee47.jpg The shinny spots are where the throw out bearing rides. The clutch lever and compression (teaser) are next to be installed. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfdfd130c.jpg Throw out bearing goes on next. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb98c9edd.jpg |
There are several different compression springs that you can use in your Cub Cadet clutch. Cub Cadet Classics has a blue spring that has 500 to 600 pound rating. The red spring has a 800 pound rating. The yellow spring has a 1120 pound rating. The stock spring has 225 to 250 pound rating. I set my clutches so my Wife and grand kids can push the clutch in. The red spring is too much and the stock spring isn't strong enough. I found on a tractor pull site this spring that has a 500 rating. It was before the blue spring was found plus it is cheaper. The spring is half of a field cultivator spring. One problem with this spring is the inside diameter is too big. I use a piece of pipe as a spacer with this spring.
My IH Cub Cadet 100 has this spring set up in for the last 3 years with no problems. Install the spacer on drive shaft. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3f07cbe5.jpg Washer is first them the spring. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...pse500f4f8.jpg Next is a washer and 2 split collars. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5a71ae91.jpg Some may be asking why I use split collars instead of the pin that cub Cadet used. The hole in the drive shaft is a weak spot. I'm trying to eliminate weak areas. Next the clutch assembly goes in my clutch spring compressor. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc141b155.jpg The clutch spring is compress to the same spot where the pin thru the driveshaft location was. Both collars are tighten. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6a8d9c04.jpg The second collar is more for insurance so the they don't slip on the drive shaft. Hopefully everyone notice the safety pin in my clutch spring compressor. there is plenty of stored energy in that drive shaft. This picture shows the spring that holds the clutch pedal up. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps389bd16a.jpg It was missing. Clutch is installed back in the 100. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1dddecc7.jpg |
This was the main reason why the work to the 100 was done.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psaa6b6e21.jpg The 2 nuts were welded to the inside of the frame. I have several different attachments that mount where the mule drive connects. I purchase these from Jeff in Pa. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6331307a.jpg It makes mounting attachments to the 100 much easier. ( Thanks Jeff!!!) |
The material that the driveshaft is made out of is 4140 material.
The clutch is a Kevlar/fiberglass composite material. This sounds overkill for a 10 horse power Cub Cadet. The plans are to increase the horse power next year. I hope I was able to show you the way I been building clutches. There are different ways to build one. This set up works for me. You will have a few more parts if you are working on a wide frame clutch. Keep track of where they go. The above clutch rebuild was done on a narrow frame clutch assembly. There are few items that are different between a narrow frame clutch assembly and wide frame-quiet line assembly. Parts that are different: Driveshaft length The throw out bearing part number on models 70-100-71-102-122-72-104-124-73-106-126 is 941-3056. The throw out bearing part number on models 86-108-128-580-582-800-1000-1050-1200-1535-1604-1606 and 1806 is 703-0600. Models 86-108-128-580-582-800-1000-1050-1200-1535-1604-1606 and 1806 have a spring spacer in the drive shaft. |
Quote:
:Cub2: |
I found the part number(s) for the spring I used.
500 pound clutch spring PECP1511A1 (New Holland) EP1511 (AGCO) You can go to a New Holland or AGCO dealer to see if they have the part or they should be able to order one. The spring needs to be cut in 2. |
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