The Bosch is $30 from amazon with 2 day prime, so for $6 more for a better product possibly? The Last 2 V/R’s I got from DB Electric lasted just past their year warranty and would become unstable until they finally died. One actually had a contact stuck closed, cleaning it got it through the rest of the warranty. I’m looking for something that’s more reliable. I’ve been an avionics guy for over 22years and I’ve seen every generator system from Harley to light civil aviation go to solid state, with great benefits. I’ll keep y’all posted on how it plays out

If your voltage regulators are failing, perhaps you may have some other issue contributing to the problem. I would at least make sure all the wiring and connections are nice, clean, bright and tight!

Yes and I was around when we went to alternators on vehicles in the early
60's but retained mechanical regulators.
it was near 10 years before we went to electronic regulators, then improved and incorporated them in the alt.
and it was a good thing.
I reject a lot of 'lectronic stuff, but the internal regulated alt is a good thing.

George, I’ve thought of putting the latter Kohler stator, v/r, flywheel w/ ring gear, starter, bearing plate, shroud, and then cutting, widening, and welding in reinforcements.

Billy, the amp load on the system is too high and I believe it’s killing the field coils and regulator. I’ve got 2 65w headlights and a 36w backup light for blowing snow. Lights are being changed to 9w led par 36 bulbs dropping my load down to 3 amps from around 14 amps.

I’m doing this all to get a reliable electrical system, wire harness is over built with 10awg and 4awg, so just trying to builtproof this last weak link

The 14 amp draw I think is certainly what was causing VR to fail. The SG is rated for 15. With your power requirements dropping to 3 amps the stock system should be plenty ample. I think a stock VR will last much longer than the previous ones as well. Thinking about your lights. Those 3 lights should not have been dawing 14 amps. What else was running when you measured that amperage?

Cooperino, I had 166 watts with 3 lights, that’s all. It’s still too much, so that’s why I’m changing them

Normally, Cub Cadet headlights are two 35W sealed beams.

166 watts at 13.6 volts = 12.2 amps. Also par 36 lamps come in a variety of wattage. You can get them as low as 9 watts.. In any event if you were truly pulling 14 amps something else was drawing current. I would put an amp clip on the battery cables engine running with nothing on and check load.

Cooperino, never measured and used 166/12. My point is in all of this, is these rebuilt/Chinese s/g and v/r can’t handle 80% of their rated load longer then their warranty.

Current plan is change 3 par 36 to 9w led, rebuilding a Delco s/g, and putting on the Bosch 30019 v/r all in the hope of never having to mess with the electrical again

Dam,
I hope you are successful with the ss regulator, it would be a nice upgrade for an old skool system.
Today they do a lotta neat stuff.
The old ford flathead guys are getting a 12V (or 6V) Alternator built in what looks to be a plane old 6v. ford generator housing, sitting right in it's proper place on the engine.
One has to look close see it is not a plane ol' generator.
A wolf in sheep's clothes so to speak.
I guess if there is a need, and quantity is there for profit, it will be filled. :bigthink: