Yes. .020 is normal starting point. Heck, I set points to .020 for 30 years on my 108 before I learned about static timing. Always worked and ran fine.

Yup. What dart said. The reason I do it this was and not just set with feeler gauge is, Every engine is a little different. Some may run best at .018 and some at .022. Some right at .020 The difference is only a couple degrees of dwell on the points. But if everything is set up correctly it should run best with the S right in the middle of the hole. After you do this, measure your gap just for shits and grins and let us know what it turned out to be.

I'll give it a shot tomorrow!

With the 'S' in the center, the points should just be starting to break.
Do it with an ohm meter or a test light.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...=static+timing

It runs much better and effortlessly. But still have long cranks before firing up. I have a digital timing light with a rpm built in, do I use 2 or 4 cycle option in the light?

Also, on the carb, it's new itself. I have the high idle screw set at 2 3/4 turns and the low idle screw set at 1 1/2 turns to get it running. What is the common settings on the carb? It does sounds like it's missing a little while wot

Missing could be the condenser.... It was mentioned near the beginning of this thread. Did you replace it when you replaced the points?

There are no "settings" for tuning. Set the carb sort of the way you did to get it to start then you tune it by ear and feel

All the tune up parts is brand new

Alright, all day today, I pretty much play and messed with it, drove around in my mountains until gas ran out. Wanted to see what spark plug looks like on one tank of gas and I use notbing but 93 octane in it. When i pulled the plug, it has black soot all over it. So I wiped it clean. What does black spot means? The low idle screw adjustment didnt seem to change anything.

It ran great overall, didnt try to die going up the hill.