I've got a good digital multimeter, so I'll start by checking the resistance. After that, It's probably a search for a good used part.

I removed the electromagnetic clutch and measure the resistance of the field coil as per the CC instructions. I found 0.9 Ohms resistance vs. a factory spec of around 3-4 Ohms. The lower resistance indicates greater current flow and thus, higher drain on the battery. The plastic potting material on the field coil was cracked in a few places also. Does this sound typical? Is the resistance I measured that out-of-whack?

IF your VOM or DVM is accurate, then anything less than 3 Ohms indicates a short.

If you want to spend some extra time on this, you could remove the field coil assembly from the Tractor. Wash and clean it up real good. Let the Field Coil dry (or blow dry). Then retake your ohmerage readings again. If still less than 3 Ohms, then the Field Coil is toast.

IF you readings are in the Factory range (3 to 4 Ohms), then you can seal the cracks in the potting material with something like JB Weld.

I have the coil off the tractor already, so I'll give the clean-up route a shot. There are only a few cracks where the windings are visible, so I should know if it will work or not fairly soon. Another question I have regards the brake plate. My clutch dragged on the plate when not energized. I assume the plate needs to stop the clutch when the PTO power is off, and have no contact when engaged. Any tips on adjustment?

Your analogy is correct on the Braking Design.

Refer to the Link above for adjusting the Brake Plate Clearances...

:ThumbsUp:

Sorry to have taken this thread in a new direction. Did I miss the link you supplied?

In post #5, Rolland hyperlinked the word PTO in the last sentence of his post.

I use an extra long feeler guage, long enough that it passes thru 2 of the 4 slots on the brake plate at the same time.

I just picked up a used clutch on ebay. It looks like heck, but the internal resistance is right on the mark (3.2 ohms). Need to patch the potting on the coil in a few places, and the power wire is badly frayed. Some surgery required to get it in shape, and not much wire to work with. Still, it looks like I've got a solution to the problem.

Weve used epoxy in the past with good results. Ive also used glyptal on windings before. I coated the coil in this and baked it in the oven for an hour on 200 then let it dry. The oven allowed the glyptal to flow around the wires to help with insulation.