i think i almost bought that tractor? did you buy it from matt in kimball. hope your projects go well :beerchug:

Yes, I did buy the tractor from Matt.

Here are a couple of pictures of the latest progress. The hood, grill, battery & motor are off or out the tractor at this point. I knew going in that my clutch was shot because it was slipping and the driveshaft wouldn't stop spinning when the clutch pedal was depressed. Turns out about 1/2 of the parts are worn out or broken. As for the motor, it had started to somke a little bit the last couple of times that I used the tractor. After I got it out & onto the table did I find that the rotating assembly turns pretty easily... too easily it seems. Using about the same force as opening a spagetti sauce can, I can turn the crank thru the compression stroke in about 2 seconds time. I didn't do a compression test on the motor yet so I'll wait & see what that yields me. The tag for the motor is in bad shape, so I'm not sure what motor is here. I'm curious what you guys think or what your opinions for what to do with the motor are.

If you're going though the tractor, I would disassemble the engine and inspect/measure everything as per the service manual and then take the appropriate action. The compression release will keep you from getting accurate results from a compression test.

never tried it but cant you spin the motor over backwards and its the full compression?

Yes, you can if you rig something up to spin it backwards fast enough.

That begs the question, is it even worth it to try to do a compression test? by that I mean this: on vehicle engines you can do what we would think of a normal compression test, but you also usually check the gaps in the rings when put in the cylinder alone to make sure they are correctly sized. Could I get away taking the rings off the piston and putting them in the cylinder (straight & square of course) and measuring the gaps to determine wear? This would just be for the wear of the rings to see if they are sealing properly (and if I'm getting blow-by). I know I still have to measure the cylinder for ID, taper & roundness. The rest of the motor, I.E. crank journals, bearing ID/OD, etc. seems fairly straight forward.

I was able to get the 100 torn down a little more in the past few days. Down to the frame, axle, column & rear end. Left it together this much so I could easily move it around the garage. Biggest issue now seems to be missing or incorrect fasteners in various places on the tractor. Planning on cleanign up all the sheetmetal & frame of the grase & dirt that has accumulated and start on some modifications for the tractor. Thinking of doing the clutch/brake split first. Here are some new pictures for everyone.

Thanks for the progress pics, Mike! :beerchug:

Pulled the 100 apart a bit more today. Got the frame stripped down to just the clutch/brake pedal & pedal rockshaft. Had to cut the front axle out with the sawzall since the pin is frozen in the axle. This seems to be the culprit to my sloppy steering - I could watch the axle go back & forth when I turned the wheels. Stripped down the tower and started pulling the tin off of the motor. I have no idea why it is, but most of my tin, motor, framerails and some of the small pieces are red. It does apprear to be close to IH red, but still, I don't know why there is red paint. There is a fair amount of grass & dirt in the fins on the head & side of the motor so I hope it didn't get too hot to hurt the guts of the motor. My camera is not working at the moment, so I'll post pictures is a day or so when I get that sorted out.

Something that came to mind when I was cutting the axle out - Has anyone drilled a hole in the bottom of the axle to the pivot pin bore and put a grease zerk in the axle? This way you could grease the pivot pin when you do your PM. Seems odd that it isn't there from the factory given the design of axle & pivot.