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Looks like the drive shaft got repaired at some point. The steering mod:bash2: is hard on the eyes. I think that's a JD seat pan.
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Nice find for $25! Looks like it will be a fun rebuild! It is amazing what all people do to modify there tractors and such! Look forward to seeing the restore!
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Took the 73 up to the local car wash and power washed all the barn dust and as much of the grease and grime off that I could get too. I came out pretty decent. I figured I might as well get started tearing it down, but leave some things for my nephew to help me with. I'll let him help tear down the motor, remove the seat and help me remove the steering components and then the front axle. I have the steering wheel soaking in PB Blaster, once we get that off I'll have him help me get the steering tower removed from the frame. There will be more to do, but that was enough for today. I did find out the motor is NOT the original motor :bash2:. You will see a pic of some wires with what looks like a three way connector. I figure this motor has a stator behind the flywheel. Should not be an issue, but was just surprised by that. Also the motor was blue at some time. A PO put the Cub tin work back on the motor to keep the appearance of a cub motor. It does not have an oil fill tube. There is a plug that you have to remove located where the tube should be. I am hoping I can put a tube in there? Well anyway, here are some pics of today's progress.
Cleaned up, sort off: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02410.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02411.jpg The Hood and cast front end removed: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02412.jpg All Jacked Up and ready to be worked on :biggrin2: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02414.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02415.jpg :angry: What's this crap??? :bigthink: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02416.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02419.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02420.jpg Figured I needed pics of the throttle and Choke linkage setup :biggrin2: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02417.jpg |
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02416.jpg
Motor removed and setting on bench http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02421.jpg Good progress for today http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02422.jpg Old ragged wiring harness ripped out http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02424.jpg PB Blaster a Cub Mechanics best friend. This steering wheel will come off soon, :biggrin2: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02423.jpg |
Great pics, DWayne! You're making some nice progress on the 73. :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Allen, I am trying, but it will slow way down once it's in pieces.
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Rusty nuts
Great work!
Pblaster IS the stuff... works better than anything I've tried on rusty hardware. John |
I never had a 73,looks like it is coming apart well.Did a 73 have a round tank?
On the steering,at least the PO did not weld it together BTDT You may have 8hp in there only way to find out is to pull the head and measure the bore.Looks like ford blue... |
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The steering wheel is in decent shape, but it is very loose where the spokes go into the center hub. I'll probably have my brother in law pic up a new repro for it. I thought it looked like Ford blue too, LOL. I have to wait for my nephew to come help me take the engine apart, altho curiosity is killing me. I might at least pop the head and measure then put it back on for him to take off. :biggrin2: |
Looking good Dwayne, I like the breather cover, with a pre bent rubber hose of the right diameter, you can vent down below the motor, keeping the new paint nice and pretty!
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Sweet pics DWayne! After looking at the pic with the wiring the right side was cut narrower then the left side. Just measure where the tabs are welded on the dash tower and use the same width as the base and the same height as the top of the tabs and you'll have everything you need make a new battery box.
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Was a nice day out and everyone was gone, so I had some time to play, ahem I mean work on the 73 a bit. First order of the day was the steering wheel removal. I have been spraying it with PB blaster the last few days. I got my air chisel and installed the custom made tool I use to remove the steering wheels with. About 10 minutes of some easy work rotating the wheel while applying upward pressure and using the air chisel the wheel suddenly slid right off. I continued with removing the sead and rear seat mount. Removed the steering tower and removed the clutch assembly. I was also able to get the Engine PTO removed. I had to drill out one set of set screws. They were FUBAR'd pretty bad from PO. You will see the PTO bearing was not installed correctly and the back side of the PTO was rubbing the end of the crankshaft :bash2:. Some hand filing removed the ridge from the crank shaft. I am going to have to buy a gear puller to get the bearing off. It is on "tight". As you will see from the pic of the motor I pulled the head, there is quite a bit of carbon and I took a picture of the piston at the top and then at the bottom. If you look real good you can see quite a bit of the rings on the Carb side of the cylinder. Egg Shaped, but I am pretty sure .010 will fix it, but will know positively once I get the piston out. That was about all I accomplished today. Oh I did have some time to polish on the 982D out side in the shade before I put it back up. :biggrin2:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02425.jpg Air Chisel http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02426.jpg Tool made by cutting off the head of a 3/8x4" bolt. http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02427.jpg Tool installed for removal: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02428.jpg Success, and no, I have not had any bearing cub or bearing damage removing the steering wheels this way. http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02429.jpg Nice clean damage free steering shaft and tube: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02430.jpg Almost there, just a few more things to remove: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02434.jpg Inside of the steering tower after removal: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02435.jpg |
PTO Bearing installed too far back :bash2:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02431.jpg Piston and valves and carbon, the head was pretty nasty: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02432.jpg Rings showing pretty bad on one side: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02433.jpg |
Thanks for the pix and a question
Great pictures and it looks like you've got one well worth saving.
On your wheel tool, do I understand that that bol5 slides down inside the steering column shaft and the tool hammers on the shaft with the nuts you have threaded on there? It's a good idea ...air tools...impacts and the like save a lot of bolts/nuts AND knuckles Thanks John |
Awesome pics and updates DWayne! What a great way to spend some free time!
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I use the same method to remove the steering wheel,but I loosen the nut a turn or two,and leave it on.Always use a lot of soak time with the PB blaster
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looking good Dwayne! Reminds me of me restoring my 73. I was lucky with the motor it sat inside for 16 years and started right up with no smoke! the 73s are neat little cubs. here is a pic after the resto :)Attachment 15946
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Looking good! Cool tips with impact driver too! :beerchug:
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Thanks for the pics, and update, DWayne! :beerchug:
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Looking good Dwayne!
You are coming along nicely! |
Thanks.. It would be real nice if I could get some paint sprayed while there are a few weeks of warm weather left, then can work on the mechanicals while it is cold out.
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I was able to get the PTO bearing removed finally with the right tool and the S/G crank pulley. I went ahead and disassembled the engine and got all of the tolerances checked. As I thought a .010/.010 kit will fix everything up nicely. I was hoping I would get to use my tools again. Take a look at the PTO end of the crank shaft. It looks to have had a shaft installed over the original crank surface to compensate for the ID of the PTO bearing and lock and pulley. It looks be be pinned and seems to be quite solid. Is this something anyone has seen before? From measuring I will have to cut the very tip off of the crank so that if we use a PTO later the bearing can be placed correctly. Not much else out of the norm that I can see. If you see something odd feel free to speak up. You will see what looks like sand in the cylinder on a couple of pics. I have no idea what that is unless is dust, because I wiped it clean, LOL.
Piston and rod looked to be in good shape: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02437.jpg Bearing surface looked good: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02438.jpg First time I have seen a bolt head lock for the rod bolts. http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02439.jpg PTO end of Crank Shaft. You can see the added sleeve or what I think has been added: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02440.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02441.jpg Need to cut the excess off of the crank end: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02442.jpg Crankpin surface looked really good, but a bit too much wear: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02443.jpg No crosshatch that I could find except at the very bottom: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02444.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02445.jpg Will replace the valve guides: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02446.jpg |
Thanks for the pics and update, DWayne! :beerchug:
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Some of my tools I like to play with, I mean work with. :biggrin2:
I set my cylinder dial to the max wear measurement. This way I will know if I have a go no go cylinder and or if the wear is just under the max it will still be time to bore. I set the max limit on my caliper: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02448.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02447.jpg Then adjusted the dial to measure "0" right at the max: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02451.jpg Anything to the left of 0 is too much wear. It was all bad, LOL: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02452.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02455.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02450.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/DSC02449.jpg That was it for the day. I didn't take any pics of checking the crank and a lot of this may be boring for most, but it may help someone or lead them to ask a question. :beerchug: |
I've never seen those locking tabs on a Kohler rod, but many B&S engines have those.
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You may be better off finding a cub motor and rebuild that one.I see no keyway in the shaft.What keeps the S/G pulley from spinning?Or am I missing something...Is this dirt or a crack...
Nice set of tools!! |
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Here is the keyway http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...XKLR/crank.jpg I will have to check the bearing plate. I did not look at it real close, I was focused on checking everything else. Will be the first thing I check in the morning. :beerchug: |
I had to go look, LOL. There is an indentation in the plate. No cracks anywhere. The flash and light made a shadow there.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...LR/plate-1.jpg |
DWayne awesome pics and tools! To bad the PO didn't keep the tins from the replacement motor on the motor that would have been most helpful.
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I spent Monday taking the carb from the 73 apart. Wow, it was nasty and the gas looked like dark aged Bourbon. And smelled. As you can see the carb was covered in grime and grease and the inside was just as bad. I bought a gallon of Chem Dip and left everything in there for a couple of days. It came out great and cleaned up nicely and I put a new kit in it. I'll have pics of the rebuilt carb later. Here are some pics of it as I was putting it into the Cleaning solution.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image008.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image009.jpg Nasty float. It didn't get re-used: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image010.jpg Rust inside the bowl: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image011.jpg Hi Idle Needle was gummed up pretty good: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image012.jpg This stuff is great. Have used this brand for years: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image013.jpg Ready for cleaning: http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image014.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image015.jpg |
Good job, DWayne! Thanks for the pics. :beerchug:
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That's one nasty carb! I use the same carb cleaner, it's good stuff!
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Freshly cleaned and rebuilt. I wish I had gotten pictures of the part after cleaning, but I didn't. But you can see the finished product. Much nicer and works smoothly. Cell phone pics. Forgive me.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image003.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image005.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image004.jpg http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...3/Image006.jpg |
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