Adam

You know the drill, fresh Hy-Tran and filter first.:beerchug:

Yep already did that and it helped but still seems a bit slow to me!

For what ever it's worth all of my Supers seem a bit slower than my 1210 did. I think it's because of the gearing on the Supers. Good thing is they will pull a stump.:beerchug:

My 1872 is a race horse compared to ANY standard size Cub Cadet I have EVER been on. :bigthink: The 1872 is fully 1/3 faster than the 1861, 1000, 149, if not more.

No lack of power due to it being faster. The 1872 really pulls.

I wonder if it is a linkage adjustment that can effect the speed?? :bigeyes:

My neutral is perfect, and reverse is a little sluggish.

:Huh:

Or did a PO slip a GT rear in it? Only way to know for sure is to count the teeth on the reduction gear and pump out put shaft.:bigthink:

I don't think you can do that Sam. A GT hydro won't fit in a super rear and if they changed the complete rear and hydro from a GT it would be faster...wouldn't it, I think?

I have had that 1872 so long, I believe it only had 200 hours on it when I got it.

I bought it off the dealer that sold it new, and had always serviced it.

(I may have bought it in the late 1980's, :biggrin2:)

The machine only ever saw light homeowner use before I got it.

That said, it runs so good, I will not be taking the cover off just to count!! :bigeyes:

If it ain't broke, don't mess with it!!.

Todd

Cad said his is faster so I wondered if it maybe had a GT rear & pump in it. That would make it faster.

I hear that.:beerchug:

Ooops, sorry bout that.

Sam glad you got it done and tested. To bad the battery could keep up with the work load and that's one heck of a job to ask a battery drill to do.

QUOTE Sam Mac; Made a little test stand to hold the rear, an adapter so I could run it with a cordless drill and a return line for the hydraulics out of some 3/8” brake line and a pair of flare nuts.

Sam: Just a reminder :beerchug:
:Unknown::WWP::TTWWP::WWP::Woo:

Man you guys are tough, OK here are the pics. :biggrin2::beerchug:

Sam I feel your pain.:beer2:

MMMMMmm pretty filter.... : - )

Note to self, PAINT the filter. LOL:biggrin2:

Thanks for the pics, Sam! :biggrin2:

:WWP:Yeah thanks Sam, but next time we send the drone ! :Shocked:

:popcorn:

Good I need something to use for target practice, High Energy Laser Mobile 10-kilowatt solid-state laser

I prefer to use satellite, that way no one can spot we with radar:beer2::biggrin2:

Wow Sam, that is pretty cool ! Wait a minute, is that who I think it is? :bigthink:

Mini me! Stop hum__ng the laser ! Huston, We have a problem !

Sam Mac

What is the best way to install the expansion plug? Is the method critical or do you just give it a whack?

Did the motor valve plate on the hydro you fixed have the four notches like the manual shows? Mine had not notches. The pump plate did have the two notches as shown.

I also found that the pins that hold the swash plate to the trunnion shafts had to be driven further in the than the 15/32 that the manual specifies.

I found the hydro tear down and rebuild to be pretty easy. The manual does help a lot.

Frank

My motor plate had the 2 notches. I use a bearing driver to install the expansion plug. I also put some red Loc-Tite around the outside of the plug before I install it.

Sam Mac, How did you make the adapter to turn the hydro with the cordless drill? I have a rebuilt rear end I would like to test before I put it on my 1541.

Frank

I had some odd ball adapters laying around, I stuck a 1/2 bolt in one with a nut on the out side, tightened up the nut and bolted it to the pump adapter. If you have a welder you could use a piece of flat bar stock and just weld a short piece od round stock to the cent and drill 2 holes in it to bolt to the pump adapter.

Sam,
When you rebuilt the hydro did you get the valve plate or the slippers lapped? Or was it just a reseal kit? Im getting ready to do mine and was wondering if its a must do on a rebuild or if its a situation of if they are in bad shape?

I didn't do anything to the plate or slippers.