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-   -   My 1650 needs more electrical output!! (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29182)

Calvins66Cub 12-31-2013 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 234524)
Honestly, I have the exact same cab, and wanted to do the exact same thing as macman. I wasn't going to post anything about it till I had it figured out and installed. So, I had already been working on the best solution. My plan was the small alternator I listed, but hadn't settled on an exact one because I hadn't found the amp ratings yet. Just like any other alternator, I'm sure there are different amp rated ones.

Make a pulley like this:
(Please disregard the the other things in the pic, it's for another idea.)
Attachment 45718


Then mount the alternator off to one side, or below. I was looking to add about 30 amps. Just need to find an alt to do it. I run 6 30w lights, the win wiper, PTO and wanted to add a heater for a total estimated amp draw, (everything running) of 43amps. Adding a second alt to the system of 30 amp gives a total of 45 available. Plenty. Second alternators don't cause problems. Actually there are several trucks and vans that have 2. Wiring on the machine doesn't have to change, and the additional HP needed for this alt will be under 1 hp, so that really isn't a concern.

Roland mentioned a 30Amp stator for the Kohler. I can't seem to find one, but I did find a 25amp. Still not enough on it's own, but I might install it so I have an available 55 amps with the 2 alternators. It only draws amps when needed. That's the job of the V.R.


Not sure if this relates to the Kohler alternator you are referring to, but I was told that alternators have a duty cycle (ex. 20%). Meaning full load amps for 2 minutes, rest (minimal load) for 8 minutes. Similar to a welder. I would not recommend pulling 43 amps from 45 available amps 100%. 1.5 times needed amperage at least. just my :TwoCents:

J-Mech 12-31-2013 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calvins66Cub (Post 234558)
Not sure if this relates to the Kohler alternator you are referring to, but I was told that alternators have a duty cycle (ex. 20%). Meaning full load amps for 2 minutes, rest (minimal load) for 8 minutes. Similar to a welder. I would not recommend pulling 43 amps from 45 available amps 100%. 1.5 times needed amperage at least. just my :TwoCents:

While the duty cycle claim may in fact be true, alternators don't carry a rating. It would be almost impossible to figure out, without torture testing one, what the rating is. It isn't listed in specs, and I doubt you could get a manufacturer to give an honest answer. I've never had a problem with running an alt at max before.... never had one overheat, not a good alternator anyway. Old wore out one sure. I've been running 6 lights on my 1811 for about 10 years now, and the alt is still fine. I'm not scared at all to run two alt's, or to run them that close to max. An alternator is not a welder. A welder uses a big transformer to step up power, and they overheat. I really wouldn't worry about it. If I can get up to 60 amps, that would be great. But, dunno if I can. If the duty cycle was a big deal, it would be listed in the specs for the alternator.

Calvins66Cub 12-31-2013 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 234587)
While the duty cycle claim may in fact be true, alternators don't carry a rating. It would be almost impossible to figure out, without torture testing one, what the rating is. It isn't listed in specs, and I doubt you could get a manufacturer to give an honest answer. I've never had a problem with running an alt at max before.... never had one overheat, not a good alternator anyway. Old wore out one sure. I've been running 6 lights on my 1811 for about 10 years now, and the alt is still fine. I'm not scared at all to run two alt's, or to run them that close to max. An alternator is not a welder. A welder uses a big transformer to step up power, and they overheat. I really wouldn't worry about it. If I can get up to 60 amps, that would be great. But, dunno if I can. If the duty cycle was a big deal, it would be listed in the specs for the alternator.

I was just using the welder as an example of duty cycle. Just another thought. Could one alternator back feed the other and fry the v/r? Do you need isolation diodes for dual charging circuits?

J-Mech 12-31-2013 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calvins66Cub (Post 234594)
I was just using the welder as an example of duty cycle. Just another thought. Could one alternator back feed the other and fry the v/r? Do you need isolation diodes for dual charging circuits?

Does a battery charger burn up a VR?

As long as you are using solid state VR/rectifier's an isolation diode should be built in. The the "AQS" motors use a solid state, and the added alt needs to use a solid state. As long as you do that, I don't see the need for isolation diodes.


That was a good question. Had to research that one a little. :RedFace2:

prairiequad 12-31-2013 08:24 PM

1650 cub cadet
 
hello; I have the same tractor, did you ever have issues with the lift mechanisim as I'm having some with mine. are these hydraulic or electric.my lift is only about 2"travel and now my blade doesn't go all the way down

macman81 12-31-2013 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairiequad (Post 234652)
hello; I have the same tractor, did you ever have issues with the lift mechanisim as I'm having some with mine. are these hydraulic or electric.my lift is only about 2"travel and now my blade doesn't go all the way down

last time i had that problem one of the roll pins in the rockshaft was sheared off. it still looked to be in tact till i checked it close.

cubfan 01-05-2014 11:57 AM

6 Attachment(s)
Judging by the previous post I think you guys have this issue covered.By no stretch of the imigination am I qualified to comment on electrical issues so I wont.I did however want to post some pics of how I got around the need for more electrical capacity needs.Granted this wont solve electrical output but it sure solved my need for the reserve need I had.I installed a battery maintainer where the battery used to be so when I'm done I just plug it in and it recharges.I put some foam from an old seat cushion under the charger to help with vibration issues to the charger.I suppose one of the small added benefits to this is also around an extra 40lbs back there.I've been real pleased with it so far.I also cut up an old inner tube and lined the under side of the top to insulate the terminals from coming into contact with it.

OldSkull 01-05-2014 04:06 PM

Well done box! Same solution I got in mind but no onboard charger, I prefer to keep the old battery space for a tools box (Plastic one) and install a 12V quick connect on the battery, this way you can use your charger for another task if need,

gmbadgley 01-05-2014 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 234587)
While the duty cycle claim may in fact be true, alternators don't carry a rating. It would be almost impossible to figure out, without torture testing one, what the rating is. It isn't listed in specs, and I doubt you could get a manufacturer to give an honest answer. I've never had a problem with running an alt at max before.... never had one overheat, not a good alternator anyway. Old wore out one sure. I've been running 6 lights on my 1811 for about 10 years now, and the alt is still fine. I'm not scared at all to run two alt's, or to run them that close to max. An alternator is not a welder. A welder uses a big transformer to step up power, and they overheat. I really wouldn't worry about it. If I can get up to 60 amps, that would be great. But, dunno if I can. If the duty cycle was a big deal, it would be listed in the specs for the alternator.

You may be OK as far as the components go, but how long will a 14ga wire carry 60 amps before you have a meltdown?


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