you can just adjust the stop on the pivot below the carb. shoes it in the manual. you'll want to put the 26 carb back on. you're hurting the torque with a 30

I tried that. Also checked to make sure the carburetor is fully open at full throttle. Going to try a new carb. Of course I didn't read this first and ordered a #30. Most people at the pull were running #30s. Why would it hurt torque?

to run at 4000 rpms it takes little movement of the carb linkage. if the carb went wide open your engine would turn mid 5s. as long as you adjusted the governor to the carb as per the manual that's all you need, why you lose torque with a #30 carb - air velocity. the majority of stocker guys don't believe it but dyno numbers don't lie and engine guys know whats going on.

Probably should pull the fluid. Fluid creates drag. Plus, move-able weight on a pulling tractor is what you want. That way next time your too heavy, you just take off some weight. Fluid is for pulling plows, not so good in tractor pulls where wheel speed is more important.

Going to remove the fluid this weekend. That way I can pull on the 1000 lb. class and 1050 lb. class.

One of the issues I am having with the rpms may be my timing. I can't see the timing mark but the original owner put a white dot on the flywheel that he used for timing. What I don't know is if it is TDC or 20 degrees before TDC. My point gap is set on .016 right now and it starts and runs fine, even wide open, but it doesn't want to go over 3600 rpm. If the timing was too retarded, would that affect the rpm?

Yes, absolutely.

Find the timing marks. Pull the engine and take the cover off if you have to. Point gap is only a minor indicator of where the timing is. In other words, depending on how much the cam lobe or the point pushrod is worn, you may not be anywhere close to where you think you are. Did you adjust the governor? If the governor to carb linkage is not correct, that will affect it too. Like Don said, you need to ditch the bigger carb too.

I adjusted to governor so the carb could go wide open so that is not the problem. I will play with the timing and ditch the bigger carb. Thanks for the tips.

Did you adjust the governor? Or the linkage? If you didn't adjust it like the procedure in the service manual, then it won't work right.

I loosened the bolt. Turned the shaft counter clockwise, then pulled the governor arm as far back as it would go and retightened the bolt.

Ok, you did it right then. :beerchug:

Get your timing set now. Once you find TDC, I suggest bumping it up at least 3° advanced.

one thing you'll learn real quick for pulling the timing mark means nothing. learn to use a dial indicator and a degree wheel and put your own marks on the wheel or start gapping them.

Update, the timing issue is resolved. The mark the original owner put on the flywheel is TDC. I had the timing set on .016. It is now reset to .02 but still wouldn't go above 3600 RPM even with the throttle wide open.

I put a new carburetor on it #26, and now it has no problem going above 4000RPM, so my carburetor must have been worn.

The governor is still set at 3600. Any suggestions on governor settings to get it to 4000 with no load?

I read on Brian Miller's site that you put the spring on the bottom hole of the L shaped bracket and the upper most hole of the throttle cable bracket to increase RPM. Is this correct or is there a better setting for pulling?

Thanks

I really doubt you needed a carb. If you haven't read the service manual on how to set the governor/engine speed you need to do that. The springs have no bearing on engine speed. They just change sensitivity. If your going to go to 4K you need to put a steel flywheel on before you do anything.

I suspect nothing is wrong with your other carb that a good cleaning and rebuild wouldn't have taken care of along with proper governor setup. FWIW like it or not. the majority of the stuff on Millers site is plain BS. as Jon stated get a manual and read that. set the governor properly .

I have read the manual. The governor is set up per the manual. The old carburetor had a loose throttle shaft and I suspect it was a walbro. I would not go above 3600 rpm even if I opened the throttle wide open by hand. With the new carburetor, it will easily go above 4000 rpm if I open it up by hand. I understand about the cast iron flywheels and the danger of running them above factory settings, but an extra 400 rpm can't be that bad or all the clubs would require limiting the rpm to 3600 or require steel flywheels. A steel flywheel is not an option because this is a working tractor as well as a puller. What I don't want to do is set the governor so the engine goes to 5000 rpm under load. I am looking for a safe governor setting that is competitive. Any suggestions?

3800 RPM.

And a steel flywheel won't keep if from being a "worker". It just makes it safer for you and more importantly, innocent bystanders who don't want shrapnel in their skull. :bash: 400 RPM is a lot when your talking engines. 400 RPM is a lot to increase anything..... PERIOD. Go drive you car at 60 and see what the RPM is. Then raise the engine 400 RPM and see how much faster it goes. You should see about a 10 MPH increase on average. That's the difference in 60 and 70. That's quite a bit. The difference between 3600 and 4000 RPM on a cast flywheel is the difference between safe, and possible fly apart.

Listen, I'm going to be kind of frank here. The steel flywheel thing... and some other suggestion that have been made to you are from people who are "in the know". You can choose to listen, or not. It's really up to you. Giving excuses as to why you don't want to do something, or about how "well it can't be that unsafe"..... we know what were talking about and you have already admitted that you are new to this and know nothing. If your asking a question it means you don't know, so it's in your best interest to take advice. Some things..... especially the safety things..... are pretty important. You should listen. If your not into spending money on it, then don't pull it. It's gonna cost some $$$ and that's all there is to it. You could have spent $35 on rebuilding your carb instead of how ever much you spent on a new one and instead used that money toward a new flywheel.

The book tells you how to set engine RPM. Follow the procedure to set it at whatever RPM you want.

It is not a question of money or not listening. Yes I could have spent $35 to rebuild my old carb. The new one cost $85. The time saved is worth the difference in price to me. It was also over carbureted. A friend of mine at the track wanted a look at it and said it had the biggest venture he had ever seen. He said to get a #30. You guys recommended a #26. I actually sent the #30 back and paid the additional shipping to get a #26 so I am listening.

I have researched steel flywheels and everyone I saw did not have cooling fins on them. I don't see how you can have a working tractor without cooling fins, so obviously I am not understanding something here. Show me what I need to buy and I'll take care of it.

Put an electric fan on it. Or you can use the cast one, just keep it under 4K.

I suggest if you want a worker and a puller, you need to buy another tractor.

Do I need a small auto fan or one of those small cyclone style pulling fans?

Your going to need one that moves a lot of air if your going to use it for "working". dvogtvpe or austin might be able to better answer that question.

Let me ask you this.... What do you mean by "worker"? You mean mowing tractor, plow, tiller, or just tugging a cart around? When I talk about my "worker" tractors they pull plows and tillers. Some people think of a worker as the machine they use to pull a cart out to the woods....... :bigthink:

I have a Johnny Bucket, front end loader mounted on it and plan to spread several truck loads of dirt and gravel over the next year or two. I also use it to pull a 4x8 trailer around the land. Once all that is done it will be a full time puller.

My best bet might be to just run at 3600 for now. It has a very strong engine, and I suspect it has pulled before.

If you have all those attachments, then I wouldn't pull it yet..... if ever.

Listen, I've built pulling tractors before for farmers. Built up some diesel pickups too. Some of them wanted tractors/trucks they could use, and pull. For all practical purposes, there is no such thing. You either build it for pulling, or you keep it for work. If you build a tractor that is good on the track, it isn't worth a s**t for working. If you build one for working, it is decent on the track, but isn't competitive. I always told them, if we try and build a machine that can be used for both, chances are it won't be good at either job. I going to say if you want to have a puller, you just need to buy another machine and make it a dedicated puller. Just being honest here. But, FWIW, you can build a machine that has a lot of guts that runs under 4K. Just all depends on what class you want to run in. Back to what I was saying before.... you need to decide what you want. But you really can't "have your cake and eat it too". That's my :TwoCents: :beerchug:

I am running in the garden modified class. They allow an aftermarket cam, but that is about it for the engine. The competition is not that fierce locally. Any well balanced tractor with a strong engine and good tires would do well. They allow 23" cut tires. Virtually all the tractors in the class are running Tru Powers uncut. Any tire suggestions?

if the governor is properly setup at 3600 with no load it will not go above 3600 under load

Anything but Tru Powers. Find a set of old Carlisle Super Lugs or Firestone's.

Bolt a set of plastic fins on it and go. Lots of guys do that.

Good tip. Thanks

stockers need torque. more the better. all that torque is made down in the 2800 to 3400 range. so the thinking you will gain power by running 4000 is not true, set your governor to 3800 to 3900 and don't worry about it. stuff to concentrate on is things that make torque. compression, advanced timing , a good valve job to improve air flow and flywheel weight are common things that help with that. coils, velocity stacks , K&N filters really in the big picture don't do much of anything

What happens if you increase the sensitivity? Will it go above 3600 momentarily? I keep reading that people had good results when the engine hunts for a set RPM.

My obsession with 4000 RPM began at my first pull when someone told me I had to get the engine up to 4000. Once hooked up, the guy actually gets off the tractor and wires the throttle wide open.

all you are doing is making the governor respond to the load quicker, it don't cause it to overspeed. what do you mean by wire the throttle open?

Sounds scary.

LMFAO. :ExtremeFunny:

Quoted the wrong post. LOL guess I better just go to bed.

I was assuming you meant wiring the throttle open sounded scary....

:IH Trusted Hand:

I mean attach a wire to the governor arm to ensure it stays wide open during the pull. To be fair, I think he has a bad carburetor and couldn't hit 4k rpms if he wanted to.

either way guys like that should not even be allowed to run.

:IH Trusted Hand: Agree. Good way to hurt somebody.

All it takes is one incident to shutdown everyone.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Thanks for the suggestion. I knew the 23" Super Lugs have been out of production for several years. I'll check ebay for some used ones.