Good progress sam.

what he said,

I guess yours,with those leaking valves,it becomes a dirt collector.

Yep, nothing like a little oil being blown around by the fan and some dirt. BTDT. I've seen worse. I'll pull the valves and send them to Machtech to be rebuilt. Still going to pull the rear and do the axle seals, drill the return holes and replace the cork gasket. Trunion also needs some TLC. Not sure if I'll open the pump and do all the pump seals have to inspect that a little closer. This is all part of the deal on a 1000 +- hour 20 year old machine. It will still be less $$$ than a new throw away Big Box store turd, and it will out last one. :beerchug:

:beerchug::beer2:
ill drink to that.

Nice work and nice find Sam-

Amazing to see stuff like this. Wish I had the time, knowledge, and SPACE to cover things like this.
Love your jack platform too!!!

Enjoy-
Chris

Chris

I have to thank Cub Crazy for turning me on to the guy that had the lift tables for sale. Best tool I ever bought, without it I wouldn't even consider doing to stuff I do on these Cubs. The knowledge has come from doing and reading the service manuals. Sort of like going to school. :beerchug:

How's the 2284 coming along, Sam?

It's a 2182. Haven't done much the last couple days, closed the pool and today the weather is awesome so I took the Harley Night Rod out for some seat time. I did get some rear end cover plates made up out of 1/4" steel plate.

:Forgot: Doh! That's what I meant :biggrin2: Good to hear the project progresses :beerchug:

Got a few things done today. I eliminated the fuel shut down solenoid by drilling the bolt that holds the float bowl to accept a 3/8" freeze plug. Got the plugs from NAPA part # SEP 381-2185, cost a whole 69 cents each. Reason I did this is that when I wire it I won't need to deal with the diode and wiring for it, plus it makes it a lot easier to get to the distributor. First 3 pics show what I did. Then I pulled the rear out. Every seal on it leaks, like that's a surprise. Next 4 pics. Then I pulled the bearings out of the PTO, I wonder why it was making screeching sounds? Also looks like the PO never used a grease gun on the drive shaft.

cub
 

Hi Sam, Wow that table and hoist really takes the work out of it. Gonna lose an hour of cub time tonight. Are you still in for that snow? Mike:ThumbsUp:

Mike

Without the lift and hoist I wouldn't be doing these things, my days of working with jack stands laying on my back are long over.

We have about 2" of snow on the ground at the moment. I'll post some pics later in the general area. :bash2:

Good progress pics, guess you gotta have something to do during those snow storms :biggrin2:

On the driveshaft; I think it was a great idea by Cub to make them greaseable, however I don't think that anyone outside enthusiasts knew about it, or so it seems. It's gotten to the point of habit whenever a Cyclops comes into the shop to pull the drive shaft, clean it up, and start with fresh grease.

The November HF sale ad has a motorcycle lift on sale, I wonder if it would lift a Cub Cadet?? :bigthink:

Only rain, here!! :bigeyes:

John

I had one of those HF motorcycle lifts. I tried it with my 1210 and decided it was not stable enough. Scary flexible. It was pretty well maxed out with this on it.
You may want to look into something like this.
http://www.discountramps.com/atv-lift/p/BW-1500AO-V2/

The lifts that CubCrazy and I have were made by these guys
http://www.advancelifts.com/Producti...A3H1_AT_W.html
Mike found them on C-List at a surplus place in PA, supposedly they came out of the Harley factory.

Got a little more done today. Pressure washed the rear and the frame. It was one nasty creature! Patched up the muffler. The end was rotted out and the PO had about 2 lbs of bird poop weld on it. Just cut it back and welded a flat plate on the end, made a ring to surround it and used an old PTO bushing for the tail pipe, a few minutes with Mr. Miller and that was done. I don't feel like buying a new muffler for this till I know if it's worth saving. Rear is on the work bench ready to be torn down. Got the new PTO bearings and some of the seals for the rear, need to order a couple more things, didn't plan on opening the pump but I noticed a few oil tracks under the seals so while it's out I may as well do it and be done with it, then the wrenching will begin. It's now officially cocktail hour as you can see looking at the top of the frame, LOL. :beerchug:

Sam, I want your retirement when I grow up. Nice work! :ThumbsUp:

Bill

I'd settle for some free time to play with cubs.......


Nice work as always Sam! :beerchug:

IDK about you Sam, but when cocktail hour in my shop begins, that when the real work gets done :beer2: :biggrin2: Looks good, thanks for the pics! :beerchug:

I have never worked on this style of tractor and i was wondering if you made the cover plate for the rearend ??? It doesn't look like the usual stamped cover for aluminum rearends.

And what are the ladder bar mount looking thingies for ??

Those axle tubes look HUGE !!!!

Bendpak.com also has 1,500 # cycle lifts on their website , but they do not have prices listed so i guess they have a dealer network ???

They sure do have some nice stuff on their site !!!!

Darrell

This tractor had a rear 3 point and rear PTO. When I got it some of the rear PTO parts where missing so I sold the remains to a member here. When I removed the rear cover that is part of the PTO I noticed how easy it is to scrape the gasket off the flat plate compared to the stamped plates so I had my welder friend cut out 3 of the flat steel plates. I'll replace the covers on my other tractors when I need to remove them. The "ladder bars" are the lower hitch points for the 3 point hitch. Axle tubes are standard Cyclops, they have the big bearings in them.

Hey Sam ,

The flat plate is a good idea , now just drill it and weld a plug in there for the fluid !!

I didn't know the Cyclops had such a big axle tube , are they that size just because of the bigger bearings ??

With the 3 point hitch on it you can't get at a plug. I'll just put a vent on it like I do on all my Cyclops. The pic shows the bearing in a Cyclops axle tube.

Put the new bearings in the PTO today, still need to do some epoxy work on the coil and fix the wiring to the coil but I think it will live. Engine is ready to pull, had to use the fire wrench on one of the nuts welded to the motor mount to get the bolt to break free. got lucky with that one. Started working on the rear. Pulled the axles and got the suction tube loose. Sometime they can be a PITA. Replaced the trunnion spring (Big Thanks to J-Mech for the tip on a better spring). That's it for today. Now it's wait for parts. :beerchug:

cub
 

Hey Sam, how bout sharin that tip on a better trunnion spring. Or did i miss it. I just tried improving on one. Mike

This is the PM about the springs.

Jon

I recall a while back that you posted something about using a muffler spring for the trunnion springs. I need to replace the springs on that 2182 I just picked up. Can you tell me what you used and where you got them and what the part number is?

Thanks
Sam


Yep. It's the spring for the exhaust pipe to manifold flange. You can get them at most part stores, and is in the "HELP!" line. Bad news, you have to buy the stud and all to get the spring, but they're usually cheap. Part number is: 03107 at O'Reillys. "HELP!" is a Dorman product. The part is like $6.50 at my local store. Napa will have it, so does Autozone. IIRC, we had to shim it a little as the spring was just a tad short, but it is much stiffer than the correct one. It virtually eliminated the hydro "lag". No lost speed in a hard pull, or going up hills. Also, no speed increase in a push, like going downhill. We left the small spring in too, "just because" I guess.

cub
 

Thanks Sam, I used to have some of them floating around here. I tried shimming and replacing a broken inner spring, it helped but not quite enough. We have a hardware here with a good spring selection, i'll check them also. Mike

Today turned out to be one of those some people should not be allowed to use tools days. Removed the axle tubes and got the normal quart of nasty goop. Then I noticed that on one of the bearings for the carrier the shims were loose and the bolts were cross threaded. Seriously some star assembled it like that, you have got to be kidding me. :bash2: Take it all apart, clean up the burrs they created from just cramming it together. Re-tap the bolt holes play with the shims till I got it nice. Funny thing is I almost didn't pull the tubes on this one, I was just going to suction the crud out of the tubes but I decided to drill the oil return holes in the case. guess I got lucky. :beerchug:

Looks good Sam :beerchug:

So the oil return holes you drill, they have not been done in those pics, correct? I'm curious to see more pics of that job.

Ryan

I replaced the pic with one that has an arrow pointing to the return hole. Very easy to do, just drill a 3/8" hole at the bottom next to the tube mounting area. Only takes a couple minutes to do both sides of the case with a cordless drill. Problem is the rear has to be out of the tractor and you need to remove the axle tubes. Biggest PITA on this job is scraping the old gaskets off the tubes and the trans housing.

Just got my check valves back from Machtech. Hope to get started on the pump soon. :beerchug:

Thanks Sam :beerchug: That hole really is right up against the bottom of the casing there, isn't it. That is a mod I plan to do to my 2284, just have to quit taking on other projects that take priority :biggrin2: I need a bigger workshop like yours, I currently have one 782 sitting on deck to be worked on next, my dad's Wheel Horse is still needing wrench time, and I have a 1330 that needs the hydro looked at so I can give it to my parents to mow with. Then winter comes and THEN, maybe, I will have time next spring :biggrin2:

Anyway, always good to see updates and thank you for reuploading that pic :beerchug:

Got some shop time yesterday, the pump and trans got all new seals and gaskets and it's back in the tractor. Still need to put a set of braces on the rear before I can fill it with oil. Also put one of my pump adapters and a fan support on it. Didn't take any pics, maybe later. :beerchug:

Pic of the rear back in the 2182. Waiting for the rear end braces to finish the back end up and test it. :beerchug:

Coming along there Sam,I should get my super in the shop and do some maintenance on it.
Looks warm today there...

Yep Lew nice and warm, got all the way up to 32.............

The shop?............... what shop?:biggrin2::bigthink:

Got the rear end braces installed. Jury rigged it enough to run it for a while to check for leaks. So far all good. Next on the to do list is to pull the engine, have the radiator cleaned. Then re-wire it. Did a compression check on it, not bad, put a new set or spark plugs in it. Sounds good so far. PTO works with the new bearings.

Thanks for the update Sam, looking good.:beerchug: