What I ended up doing John on my 1872. Raised the tractor up on it's back tires with my hoist, then ground off the pins, and knock em' out. The hole I run a step up drill in it to clean up the hole.
Then I cut a new pins to length and replaced em', welded em' in, and was good to go.
Your mileage my differ.:biggrin2:

Yeah, fixing the pins in the tractor may be the best idea. If I can't get the rockshaft out, I'll probably do Zippys method and remove the pins and weld in new ones. I can't weld well enough to build them up with a stick welder in the machine.

I knocked out the roll pins pretty easy--made a 2 ft long piloted punch.
When I tried knocking out the rockshaft, I realized 2 things quickly:
A) Man is that thing a good fit!
B) There isn't anything solid to hold back while hammering.

I put a big C-clamp over the frame to stiffen things up. Still no go. I siliconed some plastic bag over the bottom of the roll pin holes so I could fill them full of PB-Blaster. Probably let it soak a couple days while I rebuild and reinstall the carb. I may rearrange where the Cadet is parked so I can put something big and heavy against the frame so when I hit the pin, all the force is on the pin, not lost on a wiggling chassis. I wish I had a forklift, then I'd come right over the foot rest until it touches the frame. Thinking I may do the same with the scrape blade on one of the farm tractors.

Got to wondering when the rockshaft assembly got changed to this overgrown 1 pc unit--seems it happened during the 82 series--there is a serial number break in the 782 and 982 parts books.

Have fun, trying to remove the rock shaft will teach you to hate. Honestly I'd run it with out the spirol pins and maybe you'll get lucky and it will break free. Other wise it's welder time. :beerchug:

Sounds like what the Deere dealer had a customer do trying to get the rear wheels on the tractor to move. They loosened everything up and told the guy to drive it. After a week of heavy tillage the wheels finally broke loose so they could be adjusted.
So If I leave the pins out, you gonna remember that so when I ask in 5 years why the heck my lift is not picking anything up what the problem is. Heck I'd forget it before time to mow THIS year. :biggrin2: To tell the truth, I ain't gonna swing the hammer too long on this one--I've already got in my head a couple ways to reinstall replacements in the machine.

I took the rockshaft out of my 1811 and it took about 2hrs of beating, I would drive it as far as it would go with the air hammer and then pound it back in and I kept working it like that until it finally came out, I probably used a whole can of PB blaster in the process. Looks like I might have to do it again to the 1211 since it's froze and won't allow the plow to float, I've been trying to get it to free up without taking it apart but I have been unsuccessful.

I bolted a piece of flat stock using both holes to the lift arm for the plow, about 3' long,3/16 thick, after knocking the pins out, pb blasting and couple blocks of wood placed to hold the deck arms from moving, I finally got the inside to move, little at a time till I was able to dive the long pin out.
Your smilage may vary:biggrin2:

I like Todds method better,but you do want to break it free at least for the float factor.

If I had it to do all over I would probably go with Zippy's method of grinding the welds off and making new pins... It would probably be faster than the way I did it!:biggrin2:

I think those rockshafts were made to be assembled once and NEVER taken back apart!!:beerchug:

You are correct... getting the other side up against something solid is probably the only way you may get it apart!:beerchug:

Good luck with whichever way you do it!!

Two minutes total hammering time, even before today, and the rockshaft pin was out!!:High5: I swear to God that was all. Like I said before, you could tell nothing was solid when I hit it. I added the giant C-Clamp yesterday to hold the frame together but it wasn't enough. Decided what I needed was something I couldn't move with a hammer--a farm tractor. Before I started on the Cadet this afternoon we put the scrape blade on the back of dad's 454 IH (about 45 hp)--weatherman is calling for snow. I managed to squeeze it crossways in the shop then moved the 1811 parallel to the blade--really close. Put a piece of 2" tubing between the Cadet and the scrape blade. Hit the rockshaft a couple licks with a 2lb hammer and could tell it had moved just a bit. I was using a piece of barstock to drive with, so knowing how bad I swing a hammer I gripped the heck out of it with visegrips to get my hand out of the way. Several more good hits and then it seemingly jumped a 1/4" and changed sound--it was like knocking a ball over the fence, you knew you had it. From then on it was just steady hammering. I was quite happy watching the parts fall on the floor! I would have took more pics but my phone battery went dead. Enough with the rockshaft for today. I pulled the carb out of soak and put it back together and installed it and the muffler. We were really late for supper so it was time to call it a day.:beerchug:

Persistence, determination, what ever it's called, good work John.:beerchug:

That was a creative solution to the problem. Well done. :beerchug:

Having something solid when pounding is a must. Using another tractor to make it solid is great thinking.

Check out my thread before you put it back together.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ight=rockshaft

Good job John. I had an 1811 that was rusted together too. It also took me several hours beating it with a 20lb sledge. I took an old 3 foot long 1" blower shaft and beat it from the rear and then beat it back from the front. Back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, probably not the proper procedure but it worked.

Good idea on the grease fittings. I'll add 1, if I don't forget. I got so much of this thing apart right now its driving me nuts.

Not much progress today. I did get the pins out of the rockshaft. I decided to drill the holes out to 9/16 and turn the new pins down as needed. Going to make them protrude out about another .100" so I can get a washer between the lift links and the cotter pin.

Made new pins for the rockshaft. I made them about .100 longer so I can be sure to get a nice heavy washer on there between the clip pin and deck hanger. Don't you just hate lawnmowers where you can't do that? When I knocked out the old pins it appeared the holes had been punched in the rockshaft. Being a machinist that didn't set well with me. I drilled them out to 9/16 and made the new pins a "tap" fit. Also left a slightly larger head on the pins to serve as a shoulder--hey it helped locate them for welding. I don't know if I did it or if it was factory, both arms on the rockshaft were out of line. I had to beat one around on the anvil, the other I had to twist with a pipe wrench. That one has been twisted for a long time as it had bad wear on the side. Got the rockshaft installed (used never-seize) and put the fenders back on. Also installed a clutch pedal safety switch. Dealt with some poor running issues with the engine and tinkered on the deck some more.

Never seize is a good idea, I should have used that on mine... As is a grease fitting. I simply greased it.

Part of the lift mechanism arm 'floats'. (or is supposed to, mine was frozen solid). My understanding is that if pinned/locked then a blade could apply downward pressure. And could also cause other damage.

I am wondering when the link would be used in the pinned state? (all I ever run on mine is a blade or thrower, so wasnt sure if I care how free it is)

Anybody use theirs in pinned mode?

This one was set up in locked position--uses a bolt. No rear hitch but a bagger plate. The deck was off when I got it but I am assuming all the guy did was mow with it. Not really certain why he had loaded ags tires unless yard was hilly. When we pulled the rear end out I didn't see any marks that may indicate a hitch was ever on it. Too far South for a blower but maybe a blade.

Nice looking pins John!:beerchug: Great idea... looks like something cub should've done:IH Trusted Hand:

Got back on the 1811 today for a little while. Last time we had it running, well it sucked.:bigeyes: pulled the carb again, everything still looked OK. Talked up the problem on and off forum, suspected coil. I checked and one wire had more output than the other--huge difference actually. Ordered a el-cheapo coil. Pulled the engine today, washed it while it was out--dirt buildup wasn't too bad, a few nut hulls from mice. Pic is before its bath.

I do have a question, the parts book shows the engine is supposed to have 4 spacers between it and the mounting plate. It only had 2 (at the front) so we made 2 more for the back. It looks level anyway, are we correct that it should have 4?:bigthink:

Didn't have time to hook up anything other than getting it bolted back in. Maybe 1/2 hr's work to fire it up then I'll know if coil solved anything. Spark output is now equal on both wires--and strong.:beerchug:

Good amount of info John, I'm finding the thread of interest, because the next tractor in the shop after I'm done with the 782 will be the 1811 I drug home.

Cub parts site calls for 4 spacers.

That's what we saw in the paper parts book, just wanted to make sure. Thanks for checking!:beerchug: Can't hardly believe it was running bolted on an angle like that. Actually, 1 rear bolt was missing, other was loose, and the front ones weren't that tight.

Also noticed a double stack of flat washers on each side for the rear grill bolt. It looked intentional, like trying to make the hood, dash and side panels all line up perfectly.:bigthink: Nothing appears to be dented, dinged, or warped--we'll check it real good when we put it back together.

I'd be willing to bet someone ran it into something and bent the front of the frame so they used washers to get the grill to sit properly. I managed to do the same thing to my 1210 years ago and did the washer shim thing to fix it.

Mine has 4 spacers. Believe it to be unmolested.

Can you post a link of the coil info you procured?

Thanks for checking on the spacers.
I got the coil off ebay from a seller called The ROP Shop. No problems with the seller, just the wire ends were next to impossible to put on. The boots are just too small to work with the ends supplied, I've made up countless plug wires and never had this issue. Tons of these coils for sale on ebay, prices are all over the map. There appears to be 2 types of aftermarket (at least)---I'd recommend getting one with the wire ends already on them. Genuine Kohler was also available for WAY less than I can get it through a local dealer.

OK, this one is going to be a fight to the finish!:bash2: While the spark is better and equal since changing the coil, something still ain't right. Got a thread going in the engine section. After ruling out some of the simpler more obvious problems, looks like the heads have to come off to look for a gummy and or burnt valve. Ordered gasket kit today. In the meantime I was going to paint the deck tonight. I asked a while back what everyone was using for paint. A lot of you guys are using Rust-Oleum almond. I don't need enough to justify ordering a case of Valspar. I happened to be in Tractor Supply and what do you know, they had IH white majic paint. I got a couple cans and some primer. The primer went on great. Got ready to paint tonight and NOTHING out of the first can. :angry:Second can only wanted to spit and sputter. :angry::angry:Ok lesson learned--stay away from that crap! I wanted to paint the underside of the deck where the spindles go. Also wanted to paint the underside of the reinforcing plate that goes on top of deck. I grabbed a piece of can of Rust Oleum hunter green that must be 10 years old. Wouldn't you know it, sprayed perfect. That's one way of getting rid of old paint. Tomorrow the plan is to get some Almond. If that doesn't work I'm going to grab every piece of can of paint I have lying around and have at it. We'll just name this one "Dolly" as it would have its own song to match the paint job.:biggrin2: Yeah I know, some of you got completely lost by that last comment.

Sometimes you gotsta do, what you gotsta do John.:bigthink:

Coat of many colors

Got the deck painted--Rust Oleusm industrial almond--spray cans. Looks good enough for a worker. I thought I'd clean up the spindles and reinstall them tonight. Lets just say Oreileys Auto will have bearings and seals for me tomorrow.:bash2: Like I said before, this one is going to be a fight all the way!

I did get the top muffler/heat shield welded up and the grass screen under the bottom of the Cadet welded--at least what I had of it.:bigeyes: Got to get creative to make the missing piece.

Looking good John. Sometimes they fight you all the way but I'm thinking you got this one by the _alls now. I'd take that paint back to TSC and trade it in for some of the Slip-Plate they have.

Looks good John!

Aaron at xtreme makes new lower grass screens..... :BlahBlah:

Did you take the motor apart yet?

I thought about it actually but to be honest I didn't paint the underside of the deck except where the spindles and a reinforcing plate I made is going. I was afraid to sandblast the deck as it is not in the best condition. If it were clean, then I would have at the least painted it--I have wanted to try some sort of "slick" paint/coating to see how it would work.

I priced the screens, but my buddy at work can put them back together for free--except for the missing corner of this one.

Engine is still together waiting on a gasket set to arrive. If the valves have to be ground I'll probably spring for a set of rings. With good compression and no oil smoke it would probably be fine.

Slowly making progress. Put new bearings and seals in the deck spindles. I bought them from Oreileys auto for about $115 which included an extra seal in case I screwed one up or had to open back up a spindle unit. Seals and bearings are National. One thing I did also was to put the spacers that actually run in the seals on the lathe and polish them--they were so rough the seals wouldn't have stood a chance. Pitting was so bad I replaced a couple with others from the "parts dept". Had to put new nuts on the top (pulley side) of the spindles. Also had to replace all the pulleys, the others had deep pitted rust. Surface rust would have been OK with polishing. It didn't matter what I would have done to these pulleys, they were so rough they would have eaten a new belt within an hour. Put on a new idler as well. The idler arm and shoulder bolt were fairly recent replacements. Put on a new Kevlar belt. The rear gauge wheels are in decent shape. Got to make a new shaft for the front roller and then replace the bushings in the front gauge wheels. Still have to clean, straighten and then pop-rivet the serial tag back on.

We can't figure out what this deck was exposed to, but it caused some strange rust/corrosion. The large reinforcing plate was corroded horribly on both sides as well as the area it rests on the deck. The rest of the deck was decent with a lot of paint. When I say corroded, I mean I had to use a hand grinder to start removing rust with a hard stone, then move up to a flap disc, then to a wire brush before treating with RustMort. Where the deck hangers bolt was so rusted around the footprint that the deck warped. I made a reinforcement plate (3/8 x 2 1/2 or 3 x long enough to span both hangers) that went on the underside of the deck. The deck is sandwiched in between the hangers and the reinforcement plate. Added a couple extra holes to bolt the plate in between the hangers. 2 of the bearing housings looked pretty good, just nasty. One was corroded severely on the outside, makes no sense. The inside of all 3 were good except water had gotten in one and rusted the bearings. One housing was missing the top seal, 2 of the bottom seals were gutted, no shields/cups on the top side and one on the bottom side had deteriorated to the point it only qualified as a washer. Would you believe all the blade nuts screwed off without an air wrench?:bigeyes: Mower has what I guess are Gator blades. I had a lot of trouble sharpening them. I doubt they had ever been touched up, yet they were heavily pitted and very hard to grind. Never did get them "razor sharp" but they should do fine.

John, that looks too good to use...:beerchug::beerchug:

Excellent work!!:beerchug:

John,

You had your work cut out for you there!:beerchug::beerchug:

Looks great though!! Your hard work and efforts are paying off!:beerchug:

Deck looks good from here.:beerchug:
Where was the deck "stored" before you got it? If it was in an old damp barn/shed, maybe it was a rat motel, and they're pee is real hard on metal...:bigthink:

Not certain where the deck was kept. The guy I got the outfit from only owned it for a little while and never used it other than drove around the yard. Look at my M18 thread in the engine section and you'll see why. We aren't positive this deck was even under the mower. It just looked way too rough compared to the rest of the machine. It had to have been stored somewhere damp because even outside it would have dried off sometime, the blades are covered in nasty rust. I've seen damage from mouse pee before and this is way to widespread and uniform. Hopefully what I didn't grind away the Rust-Mort will stop.

OK, calling the deck complete (minus decals if I can ever find or make them) until I can get the tractor part running to test the deck out. I had to replace the bushing in one of the front gauge wheels, install new bolts in those wheels--drilled and tapped them for a grease fitting. The two bolts I used have different head designs--don't tell anyone but one of them is from Deere!:bigeyes: Also made a new pin/axle for the scalping roller. Yeah I know its not that precision to start with but it had grooves .070" deep where it goes through the deck and the overall dia. was .030" smaller than the replacement I used. Yeah I know, its a plastic roller but when you split hairs all day in a machine shop, its kind of hard not to when you get home. When I get a chance I'll figure out some decals.

In the meantime, we pulled the engine back out, heads off. Valves appear shot, haven't pulled jugs to see if pistons are useable. Hopefully, valve job, new piston and rings, face heads and we can ride. It ain't like I plan on using this 150 hours a year so I'll cut corners anywhere I don't think I'll get bit. I have a thread in the engine section about the M18.

Look identical to me John.:Whistle::Whistle: