Well then, seems you've got the engine from a Massey Ferguson 10! If it's cast iron then I'd say it's probably a good engine. Don't know too much about them but I've certainly never seen one blow up like the aluminum ones!!

https://bid.aumannauctions.com/image...jpg?1567658290

One annoying thing about them is that unlike the Kohlers, to clean your points, you'll have to remove the flywheel because they tuck the coil condenser and points under there. To get it running you'll have to pull the engine, but seems you already need to pull it to fix the clutch anyways.

Man, I might have to take up the offer on the Massey Ferguson 8 sitting behind a local shop. 100 bucks for the complete tractor and mower deck, whaddaya think?

Well, if I'm going to pull the engine, I want to put the right engine in. Anybody want this Tecumseh?
I'll probably try to get this one running first just to have a running tractor that can pull itself onto a trailer, but I'm definitely in the market for a Kohler 7 hp!
I'll be back when I get the engine out and find whatever it is I'm going to find!

I'd take it if I weren't so far away... :bash2:
I have a knack for collecting just old small engines, particularly old Briggs and Strattons, but wouldn't mind a cast iron Tecumseh. Also looking to get into Wisconsins.... lol

Not sure where you'll find a K161 for it but if you don't mind "unoriginality" too much you can also put a k181 in it, or just go for a k241 and make it a 100.

I'd like to think I wouldn't mind having a 10 HP, but if possible I'd love to keep it as close to original as possible.
I wish you were closer to here, too, as I have several old engines of various makes laying around that need new homes! Know anyone around here who could do the buying and picking up for you?

Well unfortunately, Washington is a LONG ways away from New York, so short of shipping engines across the US there's really no other options.

And with how shipping usually goes, I wouldn't trust anyone with an engine being shipped anywhere. It would arrive, in the form of a battered up box with some part of the engine sticking through the cardboard, I'd open it up and the fuel tank would be dented, or the fan shroud, :BlahBlah: :bash2:

Seems one thing we all do well here is bash shipping companies :biggrin2:

But anyways, good luck with your 70, and hopefully you'll find an engine for it soon. When you do, and get it going, I'd like to see some pictures!

On a related note, I have a lead on a running K161! If I were to have to have it shipped, anyone know the weight and dimensions so I could calculate the cost?

Without the s/g and packing material around 70 lbs.
The best way is to ship it is in a wooden box and bolted to the bottom.

I don't know about weight, but I just made some measurements of my k161 in my original. Note these aren't gonna be exact, and do NOT include a PTO or a muffler. My Original also has a larger fuel tank, so the height may be taller than necessary but here goes:

Length (PTO end of crankshaft to drive hub): about 15"

Width (of the whole engine, S/G, air cleaner and carb included): 19-20" depending on location of S/G adjustment

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, or air cleaner, but WITH carb): 13-14"

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, air cleaner, or carb): 11-12"

Height (whole engine including gas tank): 21"

Height (without gas tank, in reference to spark plug): 16-17"

Hopefully those'll cover it, I don't know what the engine is missing or if it's all complete so I tried to measure everything I could. I don't have the oil bath filter so the measurement of full width should be decently accurate. Again this is the engine for an Original and isn't exactly the same as one for a 70, so some measurements might be off. I would go an inch or 2 over in terms of box/crate size to be safe.

Thanks a bundle! I'd better get ahold of the guy and see if we can make it happen. I'm in WA and he's in MI....

:Announce:
Updates:
Well, the engine in MI wasn't quite right. BUT! I got lucky and found one right here in WA that was only a two hour drive away! Rounded up my girlfriend and made a day trip out of it. Ended up with a K161, complete with flywheel and the plate to engage the clutch, a starter/generator, a gas tank, an air cleaner, and a muffler for it, all for less than 300 bucks (not counting lunch and a stop at a custom butcher shop) and some gas. Now how do you beat that?
Finally got the bolts on the Tecumseh loose, took enough parts off of it to make it light enough to lift, and got it out of the frame. That brought good news: the cuts and welds made to the frame were only on one side to clear the oil pan. The original Kohler engine mounting holes were still there, intact, and lined up perfectly. I'm still going to have someone cut off that ugly modification and weld some L-steel I have laying around into the gap. Won't be factory-fresh, but will look better and will be stronger, I think. I'll have to get some pictures of how it looks now (up on blocks, no rear end, no front, no engine) to show the progress.
Then the really fun part will begin: reassembly. Remember folks, ALWAYS keep a grocery bag of washed-out tin cans around, along with a pad of note paper to label what part the tin of bolts came out of! Oh, and don't take the front end bolts out of the frame unless you are holding it up.... almost got conked on the noggin by that piece of VERY solid metal today.
As a side note, I'm very likely to become the new caretaker of one 1947 and one 1949 Case VAO tractors. Is there a place on here for the bigger toys or anyone interested in such things? (Not to sell, but for pictures and advice)
That's it for now, hopefully things will progress a little quicker with the engine here and the rear end almost ready for reassembly.

Good deal, I'm glad that you found one close by.
And I'll also be waiting for updates too. :)

As promised, updated photos. (Please pardon the messy shop, we are preparing to move, which makes getting this thing done or at least reassembled rather urgent!)
First up, three views of the thing in it's current state. No engine, no rear end, up on blocks of wood and a jack
Attachment 107132

Attachment 107133

Attachment 107134
Next up, do you reckon I need a new one of these clutch plates? :biggrin2:
Attachment 107135
And finally, this is what I pulled out of it. Heavy as heck! Decided against trying to get it running after I saw oil in the air intake of the carb.
Attachment 107136

Attachment 107137

Attachment 107138
Anybody want that Tecumseh? 50 bucks or best offer! Come and get it, just call (425)335-5276 or E-mail at balkecj@gmail.com
Next up, assemble the "new" k161 and get it in the frame. Then, wiring! (Also known as black magic):confused:

where did my post about wiring harnesses go? :bigthink:

I'm genuinely confused right now

I... don't know. I know I'll need help with that, too, when I get there. The Tecumseh left a mess of wires. Luckily, someone labeled them. I'll be reading those labels and trying to match it up to the needs of a Kohler. I'm sure somewhere in the technical section of this website is a wiring diagram!

WELL, I figured out where my post went... LOL

I had written it pretty early on yesterday morning, I must've not been fully awake because I hit 'Preview Post' but I never hit 'submit' after :BangPC: :biggrin2:

Well anyway, my suggestion was to completely replace the harness. The reason is that you're working on a machine that sat outside for who knows how long (plus it was modified for the Tecumseh engine). The old wiring harnesses have issues with water being able to get through the insulation on the wires. They might look okay on the outside, but underneath the wiring could be all corroded.

The least expensive option I found was Xtreme Motorworks https://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Par...Cub-Cadet.html at $85 for a 70/100 harness.

Then again, it is also possible to custom make a harness too, or combine new wiring with the existing harness. It all depends on what condition your wires are in. Here's the 70/100 wiring diagram for your convenience:
https://s25.postimg.cc/40xa7qvsv/WD_70_100.jpg

I would just make a harness. I get the tractor together then sit down with a roll of wire and some connectors and the diagram and I do one wire at a time till it's done. Usually take me a half hour or so and I can run the wires as neat as possible that way.

That is fantastic! Thank you for saving me the searching time!
I think it would be much simpler to replace the whole thing, too. Even with the labels, it is a royal mess in there. Any idea on appropriate wire gauge?

Progress is slow as I'm still looking for a place to move to and have just started a new job as well as bought two 1940's Case VAO tractors off my neighbor's estate and am working to get them moving again.
Got all the wires out. They are mostly shot. I'm leaving the ones that are on the ignition switch itself for now so I can remember what goes where, but the rest are out of there. This thing had a glass fuse holder in her! Not going to re-use that, as my 122 doesn't have one and nobody I've asked anywhere has ever seen one. Pretty sure it was installed for the Tecumseh.
Clutch plate is shot too, and the pin that holds it on is actually a thumb-screw bolt that broke off in the shaft when I tried to remove it. There were quite a few of those in the Tecumseh, and on other places too. This poor tractor was definitely somebody's experiment, and it's now my duty to bring her back to life.
That wiring diagram will come in very handy! Next step is to reattach the rear end and get my best jack out from under her frame, then start assembly of the engine so I can measure for wires. It seems like the wiring diagram is very close to that of my 122, so I'm hoping I can use it as a reference, since the computer doesn't go to the shop.

Attachment 107456

The rear end is back in place, and she's sitting on her own wheels! I only had 6 qts of 30 weight oil to put in it, so I need a few more, but it was enough to drop it into gear and roll it into place, to get the oil on everything.
The new engine is assembled on the workbench, but I need to buy some bolts that hold the sheet metal on. They got lost somewhere between the guy who rebuilt it and me. Plus, he didn't clean the carb out, so the throttle and choke butterflies are stiff and there's some crud on the float and needle. Easy stuff!
I printed that wiring diagram on my work's color printer (thank you again for finding that!) and will be buying wire when I get paid. Not sure right now when I'll have enough time in one block to do all the wiring. I don't want to start and have to stop partway through.
At least the old girl is mobile, so if I don't get it all done before I have to move, she can be moved!
I'll get some pictures up in the next few days so you all can see what your advice has resulted in!
Next question: On my K161, there is a flat bracket with two holes bolted to one side of the cowling over the flywheel. Is that where the coil and condenser are meant to go?

If you mean this bracket.........Yes.

That is it! Thanks! Luckily I've got enough parts laying around to finish the engine I bought: Points, condenser, coil, plug, plug wire! Just have to buy the actual wire for the harness.

I'm really glad you're going to save this old gal!