I just pulled the flywheel off my 100s motor the other day. mine too was pretty stuck. what I did was soaked it in liquid wrench for about 10 minutes. the took a bolt puller snugged it up real good. then took a rubber mallet and tapped the flywheel on the sides a few times. not trying to kill it, just wanted to jar it. i then tightened the puller bolt a little bit more just to put a little tension on it. tapped with a rubber mallet again. repeated the tightening a little more to add tension and the final tap with the mallet it popped right off. My manual says do not hit the shaft on the end with a hammer cause it can damage something. Good luck.

I make my own pullers,just drill two holes in a heavy pice of flat steel and lay it over the shaft(with the nut flush to the shaft)and put the bolts in good and tight into the flywheel,then tap where the shaft is.You need to tighted the bolts a few times,and remove it and put on spacers a few times too,i have always had good success with this method.Also use a lot of PB.:beerchug:

New Shoes!
 

I got my new tires in the mail yesterday, so I spent the afternoon mounting them up on the tractor. V61's for the front & 8.50 Tru Powers for the rear. Turned out way better than I had originally imagined, so I'm pretty thrilled with the outcome. All 4 tires have tubes (fronts required them) because I have one rear wheel that had a fair amount of rust on the bead so I was concerned it wouldn't seal very good. Either way, it's starting to look like a real tractor now, so I'm excited. Also power washed the motor and pulled the oil pan & some of the small covers off plus was able to removed the flywheel. Everything looks to be in really good shape from the oil pan view and the valves/springs/keepers look fine as well. The only questionable piece right now is the plastic governer gear which doesn't move along with the governer arm on the outside. There is a lag when you move the arm back & forth, like the gear is loose in the motor, but I don't know if that is normal or not yet... still reading the repair manual at the moment. There are gouges/scrapes in the cylinder wall, so it needs to be bored at the least. I plan to tear it down a bit more tomorrow to get some more answers. Some new pictures too for everyone. Enjoy! :beerchug:

Your 100 and tires look awesome! Can't wait to see it complete with the engine! :beerchug:

Looks great Mike, those new tires really make your 100 look tough! :beer2:

Jeff (teet)

I loving the new tires!

If you're tearing it down for a rebuild anyway, just replace the governor gear, cross shaft, and brass nut. That way you don't have to worry about it.

Will do Matt. Sounds like its a "piece of mind" move to do that. Were/are the governer gear always plastic?

Tire combo looks great.

Got the motor pull all the way apart today. Poor thing looks like it threw up all over my table... which is a good comparision to how fast everything came out of the block. I know it needs to be bored to clean up the cylinder walls, but otherwise it looks really good. Should be going to the machine shop this week to get bored out, clean up the crank, get the valves done at the least. Was also able to clean off quite a bit of the old black & red paint with good ol' brake cleaner. The two colors washed off like soap on your hands which I haven't seen before so it was a bit odd. All of the motors' tin & the block are going to the sandblaster tomorrow to get cleaned up before it goes to the machine shop.

We're getting silly excited now boys... like a little kid on Christmas excited. And its getting harder & harder to contain as the days go by. :Woo:

I just got my block and crank back a week ago. Am waiting to get my new governor and shaft to get things rolling. I did over file the compression ring, so am going to have to get another one ordered. I too am looking forward to getting my 128 all back together to play with.

Thanks for the update pics! :beerchug:

just a quick question...how difficult is it to tear one of these apart and rebuild it? my 12hp on my 129 is shot. im debating on rebuilding or trying to find another one. id really like to jump into the rebuild but a little scared if I can get it done. thanks. Looking great so far. thanks for the pics.

You can download the Kohler engine manual here or at Kohler engines website. The Kohler's are very easy to work on. Very basic and the instructions are easy to follow. You do need a few basic tools. A torque wrench being the most important. I do like to have a dial indicator and magnetic base, which I purchased at Harbor Freight fairly cheaply. It works fine for what measurements are needed on these engines. A spring compressor for the valve springs. I used an old GM door hinge spring compressor that you can get at any auto parts store for under $10. That is about it. You can have a machine shop check your bore and crank to see if they are in spec. I bought tools to do that myself, but I intend on doing more engines in the future is the reason I bought those. Just follow the manual to disassemble and re assemble and you should be fine. The key is just taking your time and following the steps. You do need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the flywheel too. Another item you can pick up at the auto parts store. Just stop in at a hardware store and buy grade 8 bolts to replace the cheap bolts that come in the kit. I think I needed two bolts about 2 inches longer anyway to get the puller to work on the flywheel.

OK thanks. That puts my mind at ease a little. I have downloaded th manual and do have most tools needed. Ill just have to find a machine shop.

Sorry didnt mean to hijack your thread. Thanks a,lot. I look forward to your progress.:beerchug:

thetucks - No no, you're fine. A camera, preferably digital, is a nice thing to have along the way so you can document what goes where & in what order. Its also good for what you might find once you start digging thru the motor, such as scarred cyl. walls, broken/missing parts, etc. The pictures come in handy when you put things back together especially when things sit with some time in between. Get a box of sandwich zip-lock bags, a Sharpie marker and a roll of masking tape so you can put pieces in the bags and label them for later. Most importantly, and I can't stress this enough, if you don't know ask for help. If you're not sure, just say so. Everyone here is willing to help and share whatever tips & tricks they have come upon along the way.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun. Good luck! :GoodLuck:

Got the engine block & associated sheetmetal back from the blaster yesterday afternoon. Looks like I'm going to need a new ID plate for the flywheels shroud; it was bad before & the blasting looks to have maybe finished it off. After a good cleaning this weekend, it's off to the machine shop to take care of the rest. Hopefully while the motor is out at the shop I'll be able to get the main clutch fixed (or at least started on) and finish working on the hyd. lift. Have a good weekend everyone. :High5:

If you had the block sandblasted, you better REALLY clean it out good before reassembling it. Unless all of the insides of the block were blocked off so sand could not get in, there's probably sand in places you can't imagine.

Sandblasters and engines, transmissions, etc. do not mix.

Bad news from the machine shop
 

I took my motor into the machine shop a few days ago and I got a call today saying the crank in my K241 had been ground before and now the main journal is .012" under nominal, so he can't re-grind it for a .010 rod. This was his first step, so I'm not out anything yet money-wise, but I'm not 100% sure what to do from here. So far, the rest of the block looks good enough to save with either a .010-over bore with an absolute max of .020-over being needed.

Looking for options from those who have gone down this road, or had machine work done, before.

He did give me a few options though; 1) grind the crank to .020 under & use an aftermarket rod sized for this - if a rod exists. A friend of his mentioned this idea to him, 2) spray-weld my crank, then grind it for .010 under and use the new .010-under rod I currently have, 3) find another good crank that has enough meat on it that it can be ground appropiately for a .010 rod.

I plan on using this tractor as it was originally intended, so it will see its use and see some long hours doing all kinds of chores. I did find an aftermarket .020-under rod on Ebay though I'm not terribly confident in its quality in regards to craftsmanship & longevity.

I've read about others using that ebay rod, I believe on this forum. It was made just for your situation, I don't see any reason not to use it but I am no engine builder.

Place an ad in the wanted section of the site and or call our site sponsers. Should be pretty easy to get one.

Sorry about the slow progress with the rebuild. My time/money budget is being controlled by the money issue as of current. But there is still some progress nonetheless.

Thank you to everyone who answered the wanted ad I posted here for a crankshaft. I've never had that kind of response from any posting, anywhere, ever. It was more than greatly appreciated. :beerchug:

Thanks to the guys in the tool room at work I was able to get my clutch plates cleaned up to use again. Excellent work, especially at the price of FREE!! Also got a hold of a good crankshaft that I can use in my K241 to replace my old, all ready ground down piece that was in the motor. At the same time, the gentleman who sold me the crank was able to give me a pair of axle tubes & shafts off of a hydro rear end (I think it was a 107) that have the Torrington bearings in them. A nice addition to make my machine last a little longer.

Given the clutch needs a total rebuild & it's all ready apart, I was thinking of putting a stronger main spring in instead of the stock spring - the Midwest SC red spring to be precise. I plan to use my 100 for almost everything, including plowing & some tugging work. My Dad & I move project cars (1/2 ton P/U size & smaller) and other things around their house with our Cubs so they will & do pull various things. Though maybe a heavier spring would be a nice addition. Curious what others think of this idea.

Otherwise that's it for now. Some new pictures too. Refurb'd plates, the "new" crank, a shot of the wear on my driveshaft & the hydro axles & tubes.

Saw JeffD's post about painting his 129 & 100 red. Thinking I might do the same when I repaint my tractor because it looks SWEET!! and to aggitate the green guys who live around me. *sigh* I'm the only Cub in the whole subdivision (about 200 houses) with more than a dozen & a half green tractors that I know of so far.

Look like it is coming along nice. Also looks like we got our 100's at the same place.:beerchug:

Jeff

looks like some good progress to me! Glad to hear you found a good crank too, that is one less thing you will have to worry about.

It's been a while...
 

Its been a while since I posted any updates on my progress, so here goes. The gentleman who sold me a good used crank also gave me a set of axle tubes & matching shafts that used the roller bearings instead of the bushings for a good price. I also received my motor back from the shop about a month ago and last week started putting it back together. The stats on that came out to be:

- Cylinder bored .020" over
- Crank cut .010" under
- New Kohler .010" under rod
- New Kohler .020" over piston & rings
- New exhaust valve (my old one couldn't be saved - burnt)
- Milled head (it was about .040" flatness before milling... eek!)
- Removed all of the keys from the good crank

I did get the bearing-equipped axle tubes & shafts in the transmission and sealed it back up with new gaskets. The axle bearings looked good though I did install new seals to be on the safe side. I didn't fill the transmission with fluid yet 'cause I may need to pull the shafts out to chase/fix the threads for the wheel studs since I only can get 3 on one side and 2 on the other to thread in halfway decent. The rearend that the parts came off of has been outside for a while so the threads have some moderate rust.

Decided I'm not going to paint the tractor this year and will only paint the motor & associated parts and put it back in the tractor. I'll save the rest of the painting for spring when I have a few weeks to wait for the snow to melt and the ground to dry out before mowing starts up again.

As a funny sidenote, its becoming more apparent that it is easier, cheaper, faster & more user friendly to order parts from our site sponsers (I'm a Cub Classics fan now :ThumbsUp:) than going to my Cub Cadet dealer who is 4 miles up the road. I find that odd as I figured the dealer have better service & pricing than someone online. :HeadScratch:

Plus a bunch of new pictures. Enjoy everyone. :beerchug:

Thanks for buying from our site sponsers! The thing that sets them apart for most local dealers is their passion for these cubs! They are part of the hobby and just like us they are out working and playing with their cubs. Current real world experence you can't beat it!

Mike great updates! Things are looking great! Keep up the updates coming! I've been enjoying your build!

I totally forgot about my other new parts! :bash2: About the same time I got the motor back from the machine shop I found a sleeve hitch, lift bar & rockshaft for a 147 on Ebay for a reasonable price. It's in good shape with the usual wear and one slightly bent deck lift arm that can be easily repaired. I know the rockshaft is meant for an electric lift, and instead of using the stock NF Hyd. lift unit (hoping to save the it for another Cub) and put a custom setup similar to Adam's (IHinIN) on my 100. Also hoping to order the rest of parts I need to put my mo-chine back together sometime today.

Very nice! Love the Tru Powers! Thanks for the update! :beerchug:

Un-Supervised Saturday!!
 

My fiance' left for the day to hang out with her mom & do wedding stuff, so that left me all alone for the day. :Woo: I was able to get the rotating assembly and the rest of the interior parts back into the block, clean & rebuild the carb, do the throttle shaft bushing upgrade and clean and primer the motor. Also picked up a length of threaded rod & lug nuts to make wheel studs instead of using the stock wheel bolts.

If the humidity stays low enough tomorrow :Pray: I should be able to shoot some color on the motor, get all of the small pieces & covers that fit on the motor along with primer the tins for the motor and finish the wheel stud mod. Hoping for a good day. :ThumbsUp:

Lots of new pictures guys. Enjoy! :beerchug:

Awesome pics Mike! She needs to go spend more time with mommy!:biggrin2:

Did you get a grade 5 or 8 threaded rod? Regular Threaded rod you just pick up at a Lowes or Home Depot or at a hardware store will not be strong enough to use as wheel studs. Will work for a while until you get in a bind and may just break. You can pick up wheel studs that will work at a autoparts store. Just My two cents.

Shhhhh!!! He will be saying that soon enough... :biggrin2:

Nice work, Mike! Thanks for the update! :beerchug:

Been holding out a bit...
 

My cub penny bank has been empty for a while now, so I haven't gotten much finished on my tractor with this whole getting married thing (which happened this last Saturday), but now that the big day is over I can get back on the horse and continue the project. As was suggested by another member, I put Grade 8 bolts in place of the wheel bolts and left them long enough to add a shaft to hang wheel weights on. Also got the motor mounted up an my engine stand so I can paint it soon.

Decided that I'll keep picking away at a full resto instead of getting it running and pulling it apart again to clean it up later. It'll make more sense to do it this way so I can do the mods I wanted w/o ruining new paint.

New pictures too... Enjoy.

What did you do with those wheel studs to keep them from turning when you tighten the lug nuts? I've been thinking about doing this myself, but the only thing I can figure is that I'd need to put a nut in between the wheel and the hub or weld the bolt heads to the hub.

Neither of which seems like a great idea...

You could put a lock washer under the bolt head, or use some loc-tite on the threads.

I used Permatex Red Loctite under the heads of the bolts. It's the stuff that requires heat to remove the fasteners when you wish to do so.

Thanks for the update. Congrats on being married! :beerchug:

OK, guys. I didnot know untill I got my 100. I'am back at post 20-24. What if my welder was hot and went through? It was a mig with gas. I didnot drill and grind the crack as was suggusted. I ran a bead around any material I could, top and bottom. As I get set to grind my welds nice, I wonder if I should have drilled/grind?