Put some sharpened blades and cleaned the moldy clumps frumunda the deck on the 2064 today and then mowed the semi damp grass. It will probably be moldy by morning!:bash2:
Still haven't put any air conditioners in yet.:beerchug:

On Saturday I put a headlight panel in Boo-boo, yesterday, (Sunday), I pulled her out and added 2 hours to the hour meter. Figured out my amp meter works for a second when starting the tractor then it slowly drifts back to 0 after the key is turned to run, the tractor also has the solid motor mounts and shakes like a baby's rattle. Also pulled the exhaust to get a piece of metal out of the muffler, which was making a horrible ringing sound.

I thought the solid mounts were supposed to be such a great improvement??

Check the timing to make sure it's correct, also you might need to adjust your carb and get a tach to check the rpm at full throttle. If any of these are out of whack they will make the engine shake like crazy.

They really aren't, they don't allow the engine to move independent of the frame, so the whole tractor moves. With the mounts, instead of just the engine shaking, it moves the whole front of the tractor. I need some actual ISO mounts.
Probably doesn't help that the solid mounts are only on the top of the engine cradle.

So what's between the engine mount and frame?

There's nothing, from what I've seen. Might be a washer or two, but I doubt that. The tractor's got 942 hours on it, I don't think the engine mounts would still be alive.

To clarify: There's nothing between the engine cradle and frame.

If that's the case then your driveshaft is running way out of alignment which is probably causing a lot of wear and vibration in the drive line.

Welp. I'd better get some ISO mounts before my driveshaft rips the flex coupling to smithereens.

I wouldn't be surprised if the coupler on the engine has the ball bushing blown out of it. The part number for the coupler is 903-0204