Does your 982 have coarse-spline axles? If so, I'd get the axles and carrier from a newer CCC-built tractor with the aluminum rearend. These parts are stronger than the ones that came in the iron rears. You could also go a step up from there and get the axles and carrier from a 'cyclops' series Cub, which has 30mm axles instead of the 26mm axles in all previous Cub Cadets. You'd have to bore the axle tubes out for larger bearings and seals, but that would stop your axle-breaking problem. I'll be putting the fine-spline axles from my CCC 782 into a cast-iron case when I make that into my loader tractor.

I just got back form the tractor place and had my 982 fronts filled with "Rim Guard". It cost me $23.10 to get both filled and it gave me 32#'s per tire. It would have cost me $16 to do them in washer fluid, but I think the extra $7 gives me piece of mind that I'm not going to kill or contaminate anything if I spring a leak. I'm going to do my rears with it also. They hold 8.8 gallons for 88#'s per tire. He said he charges $3.85 per gallon. So it going to cost me around $68 to do the rears. That's still cheaper than weights.

AJ

Just a "brain fart" but I'll see if it would freeze first How about cooking oil for weight. If It would work may cause less damage to rims in tubeless tires.

I know it wont hurt rubber as it is used in the process of building tires so the ply sections wont stick to the metal on the skiver.:Cub5:

That rim guard looks like the way to go for me since I don't have tubes. I'll have to see if there's a dealer around here.

It'd probably work, but remember that it will not be as heavy.

Matt, they are the coarse spline axles. I'll keep my eyes open for a ccc unit. My carrier is already banded. I was pulling on a clay track the first time one broke. The front end hit the ground so hard it broke the hood hinges. I do like the mwsc spool kit.

I found a place close to me that sells the rim guard for a good price. I have a hand pump I can use to pump it through the valve stem. Does anyone know of some type of little electrice pump or maybe a little pump powered by my air compressor that would work? The valve stem would take roughly 1/4" ID hose. Thanks

I just take the tire/wheel assy off the tractor, lie it down on it's back, break the front bead and pour it in until full. Re inflate tire.

If I were you guys, I'd use tubes....I didn't run tubes until I knocked a fluid-filled tire off a rim at a friend's house when I was plowing 10" of snow in their driveway with my 128. I had to walk home, pull another tire on a sled to the tractor, and then change it in the slush. At least the washer fluid melted all the snow off their driveway...:LMAO1:

I just filled 2 more tires thursday, This is the rig i used this time.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...filling001.jpg
I bought a little drill operated pump at the local hardware store.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...filling002.jpg
And a air-liquid valve like scotty showed in his post.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...filling004.jpg

I have a short hose off of of a washing machine for the intake. Place it in a bucket and fill the bucket with what ever you are going to use to fill the tires. Hook another hose to the output side of the pump and attach the air-liquid valve to the hose then the valve stem of the tire (remove the valve core first) My drill has a lock on the trigger and its variable speed, so i just set it to about half speed and locked it on. Stop the drill every few minutes and press the little button on the air-liquid valve to release the air. You can then just keep adding fluid to your bucket till you get it full. I had my valve stem at the 12:00 oclock position and filled to that level. This set has tubes but i also have tubeless that i have done the same way.