I tried the wheel with a puller. It didn't budge. I'll just have to get even more aggressive with it. Would heat hurt anything?

I set it on its sides and power washed the underside fairly well. I don't see anything amiss - but what do I know? This is the first I've seen the underside without being 6" away. Splitting it looks easy at this point. Anyway, here are some pics (some before and some after washing). A couple other pics thrown in for good measure.

You are surely on your way!

I'm not sure that heat wouldn't smoke the bushing in the top of the column. I'd be hesitant to do that until we hear from someone more knowledgeable about doing it.

Definitely looks like you've got a grip on going through this one though. And really, compared to the later tractors, these are really pretty simple. Even more so than the direct-drive ones. Of course, that's my opinion.

It looks like it's been used, that's for sure. But still a lot of life left in the ol' girl. Keep up the great work!

I remember something about not using heat on the steering wheel but if it's due to the bearing, well, you saw the picture. That could have been for the newer models too.

You've been busy! Keep the pics coming. :beerchug:

The steering wheel came off with only moderate persuasion. I used a gear puller and didn't need heat. I can just about see the end of the tear down and prep of the of the chassis for paint coming.

I have a different set for the lift with an extra notch. Pics 2 & 3. The parts with yellow paint came off the O. The others I got in a box at an auction. I'll have to try it to see if I can get more movement.

In pic 4 the hole looks elongated but it looks like it was made that way. The clutch is not fully releasing and there is not a lot left for adjustment. Is this hole worn or is it the way it's supposed to be?

I'm hyped now that the wheel popped. I'll pull the tower before calling it a night. I've never done most of this before so I've got lots of pics so I can get it back together. :-) I'm gonna need to spend some quality time with the service manual soon. Lots I don't know. I'd really like to hear what should be checked and done in the way of getting it squared away before painting. My girl had to go to Boston. I've got till the 8th to get done what I can before she gets back here to my place. I'm doing this in my house.

That sounded like I'm sneaking around on her with CC. She knows what I'm doing and the room was planned and built for such activities. I just do the dusty, dirty, and stinky stuff outside or in the garage. Fortunately for me I've been a good boy because she is coming home Sat. night till Mon. morning. I just need to straighten up ---- A LOT.

Anyway, the update. I did split the tractor. It wasn't really a big deal.

The oil seal on the reduction drive shaft is bent. It didn't leak before and I don't think I did it but it still needs replaced I believe. (pics 1 & 2)

The clutch shaft mushroomed against the reduction drive shaft inside the reduction drive shaft coupling. The flex disk looks alright to me but it will never be replaced until that mushroom is removed inside that pilot hole. I'll do that now while it's out but I don't know how yet. (pics 3 & 4)

That odd red wheel has the valve stem on the inside.

That one hole was elongated some but the clutch operating rod has far more ware. (Last pic)

Thanks for the update and pics. Keep up the good work!

Great to see that it is moving along nicely. I've got to get crackin' on my "O" if I'm ever going to have it finished for show season this winter!

Yup, we're a little backward on our seasons. Got the last pull of the summer coming up this weekend and then, it's getting ready for the show season while the rest of the world is white and fluffy! Oh, sorry, you MAY not want to be thinking about that already... :biggrin2:

This isn't a hydro so the brakes mean more. It seems to me this area should be dry. The steering needs cleaned. I should do the bearing upgrade.