The tractor cranks so how can it be the ignition switch.:bigthink: still no spark, maybe bad points?

I have been through ignition switch problems twice in the last few months. Yes the ingnition switch can pass voltage to the starter solenoid, and not pass voltage to the coil. The ignition switches get corroded/rusted and no longer work properly. In my case, the contacts were so bad that it started to melt the wire harness connector on the back of the switch. The switch connections from battery were solid and clean, so were the ones to the start solenoid. But the connections for the charge circuit and coil were ate up. Once you pull the switch out and inspect the harness connector, and the functions of the switch with a meter, you should be able to narrow it down in a hurry. Good luck, TB

Thanks tb.

If you are getting power TO the pos. side of the coil in BOTH the "run" AND "start" positions, but no power TO the end of the wire that connects to the points (you really need to remove that wire from the points (leave it attached to the coil) and see if there is power to it (with your test light) when grounded to the engine and the key in BOTH the start and run positions)...

Power to the POS, side of the coil (in start and run) but no power to the Neg. side of the coil (with everything hooked up as it should be).

Then the coil is bad, the wire from the neg. side of the coil is bad or the points aren't making contact and then "breaking" as they should.

Is there some reason that you can not check each of these items interdependently of each other? An Ohm meter and/or a test light and continuity tester will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about each of these components.

For the record: I NEVER use sand/emery paper/cloth or an emery board to clean points! There is too much risk of the mineral coming off of each of these and becoming lodged between the points, preventing them from making contact. Use a POINT FILE and you will never experience this problem.

On your "About Me"page, it states that you have 20 Cubs... Is there not one of these other 19 Cubs that you can't borrow a coil from to check this 149?

Have you run a jumper wire from the pos. side of your battery to the pos. side of the coil and then tried to start this engine yet?

I tried a new coil and condenser from another cub, nothing... Then I tried a new fuse under the dash, nothing... I can try a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, thee is no power what so ever at the coil.

Ignition switch and plug look ok.

I must have mis-read an earlier post, I thought you had power to the pos. side of the coil... My mistake.

Try a jumper wire to the pos side of the coil from the pos. battery post then and see what happens.

The ignition switch can go bad (on the inside) and not let electricity through to the coil.

Ok, no problem, the weird thing is, it did have power to the positive side of the coil, then it went away.

Ok, I took the wire off the points, now I have power to both sides of the coil, so is it a bad wire or points?

I put the original coil and condenser back on and there is still power, I guess they are still good.