As far as the crank goes.........................

If the crank is still round and the metal disturbance in and around the scored area is "down" not "up", I don't see why it wouldn't be usable. But that whole engine needs a good flush.

As far as the heat....................

I've put 3-4 Vanguards back in service that had suffered high heat, blown head gaskets, slipped valve guides, etc. Just fixed the obvious and put back in service with no further problem.

Your experience may vary.

ok,
before you pull the trigger on anything,
lets see some close ups of the crank.:bigthink:

I'd go for the 18, no reason it should over heat. If you are keeping this tractor let me know and I will move this thread to the CCC/MTD section. At one point you seemed ready to sell this one or part it out and asked what it was worth.

I took your and other members advice into consideration and decided I wanted a little project this winter so I think I'm going to keep it. I would appreciate if you could move the thread.

Also, I wasn't clear in my post. I was thinking out loud about if the engine that needs to be rebuilt could still have issues after the rebuild because it overheated.

I've attached a couple pictures of the crank. The one picture shows some minor scratches I put on the crank when I touched it with some 220 grit because I couldn't feel if what i was seeing was raised or cut into the crank. I can polish the back out.

If it mikes good and not tapered or out of round, I'd chance it.
Can you feel the groves with your finger nail?
It would be nice you went .010 under with new rods.
The last photo does concern me without having it in my hand to see/feel for sure.

Grind it.


Ten characters

George I think that is kind of the point. You aren't looking at it, and it isn't your tractor. I might consider running it too..... if I was holding the crank in my hand and putting it the motor for MY tractor. But it's not ours. It's the OP's. Who obviously doesn't know what to look for, how to rebuild a motor, or done enough of them to make a judgement call. The ONLY safe thing to recommend to him is to have it ground. It might cost $50 and guarantee him that it will not seize again. Personally, unless I'm willing to pay for a new set of rods and a crank, I wouldn't suggest he using it like it is. But that's just my opinion. I'm trying to politely disagree here.... it's not our machine to gamble with.

Sorry for my ignorance here, guys. I appreciate George trying to save me a little cash. I can run my fingernail over it and feel the grooves. I have read the specs and reject dimensions, but don't have a micrometer (yet, at least). I worry that the groove is near the edge of a rod, which could introduce a slight twisting. If it was right down the middle of the rod, I would feel better about it.

You're right, Jon, I've never rebuilt a motor. One thing that I'm not sure of is how I would find undersized rods if I ground the crank.

I appreciate the advice. I think we can consider this :beatdeadhorse:

Getting an undersized rod is as easy as getting a standard rod. Just like getting an oversized piston is as easy as getting a standard one.

If it has a groove you can feel, it needs ground. When rebuilding a motor, the crank isn't a place to try and save money. Use aftermarket parts to save money.

I agree with you Jon,
once and be done with that problem, and move on to another.
If it seized quick and it is a case hardened crank, sometimes you get lucky.
Other times why chance it to only have it fail and now your are out more money or it destroys the block.
We have BTDT and it only takes one time, to say I ain't going there again.
I'm hoping he finds a good donor motor, in the mean time this one is a good learning experience, seeing what makes them tick, also all reading, learn something. :beerchug: