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Plates on the top will move the blades up. How thick are they?
Careful on the discharge one, there is a place where it gets close, it’s a plate that’s bolted on the end.
If the deck was twisted the flange on the bearing carrier is twisted too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George (Post 459905)

The grass shouldn't hang too much if you put the carriage bolts in from the bottom if possible.
-------Or, put in countersunk flat head allens from the bottom, a little more work but a smooth surface.:beerchug:

Button head cap screws maybe.
Chamfer the edge of the plates too.
I think welding them in is better. Closes up the gap and keeps crap from getting between. Just my opinion.

Yep. They will go on the bottom. I was just checking to see if the size worked with the top structures. Especially on the 374 deck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry C (Post 459874)

Is the top of the deck flat? Both of mine had to be beat flat and a reinforcement plate below. Then I shimmed the spindle housing plate to line up the blades perfectly.
I’m just curious cause on both of my decks,the outside spindles were tipped in.(top of spindle leaning to center)
I’m no expert but all the 325s I’ve seen were this way. Centerspindle is fine of course cause it already had the reinforcement plate.
Sorry to bore you with deck talk but I really like the big Habans. :biggrin2:

I'm running 2 early model 60"decks (can't remember the model). We had to shim out the spindles on my 2072 to get it level. I think I had to do the same on the 982. One of the spindles on my 2072 never really wants to take grease, wondering if it didn't get drilled?
The dealer my dad worked for had Cadet replace an ENTIRE 60" Haban under warranty because the deck was so warped. Funny thing is they never called for the old deck back, it was sold at auction for next to nothing when the dealer closed and auctioned everything off--if I would have only known:bash2:

I consulted with Jeff in PA on drilling a new grease outlet/discharge hole in the side of the spindle. A little bit of :Pray: and I hit right through at the bottom of the vertical center hole. Thanks Jeff!!!:beerchug:

And onto the PTO clutch. Inner bearing puked its grease out and was slightly rough. I have NEVER been inside of an electric PTO clutch. I was able to match up bearing at local ag store. I changed the bearing. Does the rest of this look OK just to put back together? There are a couple cracks in the plastic there. I have the destructions on how to set the air gap.

So, about this PTO clutch.

Should I be worried enough to fill the cracks on the field coil side?

The groves in the back/pulley side.... Are they supposed to be there? Or did I just replace an expensive bearing in a junk clutch??

As always, advice appreciated.

I'd stick a little JB weld or epoxy in the cracks while you have it apart. Looks good from my place :beerchug:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 460749)

I'd stick a little JB weld or epoxy in the cracks while you have it apart. Looks good from my place :beerchug:

Thanks Sam!:beerchug:

What Sam said. I've had "cracks" much worse, and it worked fine. It looks good from Gillett.:beerchug: