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-   -   Echo PB-265L Leaf Blower (I know not a cub, but need some thoughts) (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53943)

CC2140 12-13-2018 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17 (Post 473720)
How are you checking spark, plug removed from the head and laying it on the motor, or is it not.

Plug is removed, connected to the boot and making connection to the block, I pull the cord or have another person pull it and you can see spark plain as day. Although I think its kind of weak compared to other tests I have seen. I haven't done a comparison to another plug yet that is on the weekend to do list.

CC2140 12-13-2018 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 473754)
So it has spark, fuel, air, and the exhaust is not plugged--correct? I forget, compression test results? This brings timing front and center does it not? Also--here is one that drives folks nut on a 2 cycle---bad crank seals. I had it to happen on an OLD 041AV Stihl chainsaw. Buddy loaned me his "test kit", but still think I had to modify/make a block off plate. Can't remember but I believe I plugged the exhaust and pressurized the intake, then later pulled vacuum on intake? I've got a really old Echo issued vacuum tester that I used in addition to my friends. I wound up tearing that saw all the way down---everybody should do that once. I don't think there was anything left bolted together except the carb (I had already put a kit in that). There is a reason every lawnmower shop has a big pile of 2 cycle products in the scrap heap.

Has spark, fuel, air and clear exhaust. Compression with 4 pulls was 120.

John, that is honestly my next step and it won't take much its a tiny little engine. I don't see how timing can be off, with not having any valves in the engine. So, next is a complete tear down, which may take 30 mins to do to see if there are any signs, then I plan on a complete seal rebuild etc. After that I may just give up on the freebie, but all the signs are there that it should run just fine.

Bore scope does not show any issues with scoring on the wall either.

RLause 12-13-2018 01:24 PM

Do a vacuum test on the crankcase. I'm sure you will find a leak.

Sam Mac 12-13-2018 01:46 PM

Ignition timing could be off if the flywheel moved.

darkminion_17 12-13-2018 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC2140 (Post 473890)
Plug is removed, connected to the boot and making connection to the block, I pull the cord or have another person pull it and you can see spark plain as day. Although I think its kind of weak compared to other tests I have seen. I haven't done a comparison to another plug yet that is on the weekend to do list.

When you do that turn the kill switch on and off and see if it makes a difference.

mickb72 12-14-2018 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC2140 (Post 473890)
Plug is removed, connected to the boot and making connection to the block, I pull the cord or have another person pull it and you can see spark plain as day. Although I think its kind of weak compared to other tests I have seen. I haven't done a comparison to another plug yet that is on the weekend to do list.

Yes, try another plug. cj8. I bought a looks like new used Craftsman leaf blower. That skinny little spark plug fires, what ever it is but was hard to start. A cj-8 made it reliable. Mike

CC2140 12-17-2018 11:37 AM

Update
 
I bought the manufactured NGK plug, spark was better. Before testing that, I pulled the ENTIRE engine apart. It sat for 3 days and was bone freaking dry.

I reassembled and even without the carb hooked up, I shot just a bit of starting fluid in the cylinder and used the new plug and still nothing. That SOB should have at least popped. I am about to take this thing to the range and light it up with my .50Cal. I did fully reassemble and still nothing.

No scoring, I cleaned the carbon deposits on the top of the carb, still solid compression, kill switch perfectly working, I can only think may the timing, but I do not see how that is possible with how basic the engine is. There isn't a belt, there are no valves.

RLause 12-17-2018 01:04 PM

Try putting a vacuum gauge on the carb and see if it sucks when you roll it over.

CC2140 01-15-2019 11:29 AM

Update
 
So I broke the entire engine down in pieces to inspect everything. The only thing I can see that may be an issue is the main crankcase seal as it had collected dirt/grim all along it on the outside and it is razor thin and fragile. Maybe as others mentioned I was having a vacuum leak due to a faulty seal.

So, I am going to order a seal kit for it, reassemble and give it a go, one more time, otherwise I am at a complete loss and may just toss it.

Alvy 01-15-2019 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC2140 (Post 476228)
So I broke the entire engine down in pieces to inspect everything. The only thing I can see that may be an issue is the main crankcase seal as it had collected dirt/grim all along it on the outside and it is razor thin and fragile. Maybe as others mentioned I was having a vacuum leak due to a faulty seal.

So, I am going to order a seal kit for it, reassemble and give it a go, one more time, otherwise I am at a complete loss and may just toss it.

Thanks for the update. I sure would like to know the outcome as it sounds like you’ve been very thorough on it. Although if this is it, I would love to see a video about letting the 50 cal take a bite.


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