I ran into a flooding situation last spring on the 2072. The carb needle seat must have been pitted and would not stop the leaking untill i honed or polished the seat. U can check for this by looking down the intake riser under the air cleaner. After about 24 hours of sitting i would look down with a flashlight and see fuel laying down at the bottom. This did cause a real hard start. Good luck. Dave

As mentioned I did a spark test with the engine warm (sat inside garage) and with the spark tester there was plenty of spark then the next morning I tried a cold (sat outside) test I with the tester there was no spark so I disconnected the white wire to make sure the ignition wasn't grounding the coil and with the wire disconnected there still was no spark so while doing this I noticed a oil sentry sensor sticker on the motor but I don't see it on the print so at this point I'm trying to figure if there is one and if there is is that somehow failing when cold? If not then the ONLY thing left is the ing module.
After finding the oil sentry switch on a schematic
1- It cant be the problem because the white wire to the coil is disconnected
2- Theres not a second wire running to it so there cant be one.

Ok here it is after doing some final checks for a bad ignition module, by removing the ground wire (white) and turning it over in cold weather there is no spark . The ONLY thing it can be is a bad ignition module as was mentioned buy OlGeorge they sometimes wont produce in the cold ( this is me eating crow) I had to go through the process of proving or disproving this because to change it its a pretty big job. So when I feel I want to take the time I'll change it until then it will just have to stay in the warm garage that way it will start when needed to plow.

Or use something like this aimed under the tractor for a while before you want to start it.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Prop.../dp/B0000C6E3H

:bigthink:

Did it start when you reduced the plug gap? or start easier? if so leave the close plug gap.
And use a closed throrttle or just open it slightly, as it requires less voltage to fire the plugs under compression.
I've seen it many times.
Sometimes you have to throw the book away and adjust to conditions.
In the warmer weather you can change the unit,as you planned.
It has been my finding aftermarket units work just as good,--- but only in warmer weather so it is your call.

When you added an electric fuel pump did you remove the mechanical one?

This is a year old thread...... would have been better to just ask the question on the forum (digging up old threads sometimes won't get you a response).

If you put an electric FP on, yes, you should take off the old mechanical. Personally..... I prefer the mechanical. No need for all the extra wiring, and the cost is about the same.

No Spark When Cold Update
 

This is a update to an older post but it will give the people who are interested some background. I finally got the time and ambition to tear into the i872 earlier this winter to figure out what was going on with the spark. What I found amazed me that the m18 was running at all and the old girl wasn't spitting parts as she ran. My first findings were there was only one engine bolt holding the engine to the engine plate, The drive shaft was worn on both ends and of course the bearings were both shot. I preceded to pull the motor, I removed the engine shrouds and found one of the head bolts were backed out and there were enough loose head bolts that I was surprised there was not a blown head gasket. On to the fly wheel cover, I removed it and there was the problem plain as day. The gap for the ignition module was at least 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap on one side and 1/2 to 3/4 inch on the other. What was even more puzzling was the fact the bolts were tight and there no signs the module had been hit and forced to that position who knows how it ended up that way. I reset the gap, checked the spark it was a good blue. I did some degreasing in the engine bay made a couple of notches on the engine mounting plate to get around a few tight spots I then set the motor in. I ordered a new drive shaft and bearings, new rag joints, new center lock nuts put her back together. I greased all grease zerts and lubricated all the moving linkages and reinstalled the oem fuel pump and the new engine shrouds. Wala she starts and runs like a new tractor. It sometime surprises me I just tap the key and she fires up what a good ol girl.

This is the fuel pump I have used with no issues. I tried to find them cheaper but had no luck so I just buy them here when I need one.

http://www.kirkengines.com/index.php...tronicFuelPump

Thanks I'll keep that link in mind for the future