I was wondering what the latest is on this subject. Are people using the 2k-3k series driveshafts with the necessary modifications or is the CV Joint style preferred. If so will a CV style one from an 1862 fit my 1572 plus or minus some necessary modifications?

If you want to go CV you need an 1863 or 1864 shaft along with the Kubota shaft adapter and a pump adapter. Both adapters are NLA from Cub. I have my local machine shop make them for me and I do have them in stock along with the 1864 shaft for the conversion. PM me if you are interested.

well I did get the shaft in and all was well for a while. but this weekend I was pulling a 4x4 harrow and tore the blue pucks out of the front joint. luckily I had another set at home so it was just a matter of swapping them out. The second set were way tighter than I remember the first set being so maybe they were just too loose from the getgo.
I was workin it hard though. enough to boil the hytrans out of the rear end so I have to give it credit.

I've pulled a 4X4 harrow a lot and never got a trans that hot. Is your hydro dirty? Or maybe you don't have a fan? Harrows don't pull that hard. A plow pulls harder, and never overheated on a plow either. :bigthink:

No i do not have a fan on the driveshaft yet. It didnt have one when i got it so i didnt worry about it when i built the new shaft.
I have one on the way now.

Quick question to this old Post:
Is the reason for this conversion because of the Rag Couplers on the existing shaft OR is it to get the beefier diameter shaft? OR Both?
Looking at the shaft on my 782, I bet the shaft wobbles 1/4" right at the Engine coupler. Not sure if this is how sloppy they are when new or if I'm on the cusp of failure. Just used for Snow Plowing. Maybe I can just buy a Stock front Coupler and be OK for another 30 years

Tony

If you have 1/4" of slop you have a problem. If the shaft is still good you can re use it but I'm going to bet that where it fits into the ball in the coupler is worn. Time to fix it before it decides to exit the hard way.

This is fantastic! Thank you Sam for bringing this adaptation to our attention. I will be using this on my triple digit build. Too easy, I say. Spin up some 1045 for adapters and away we go.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...05/drive-line/
I pulled up the parts break down for one of these shafts. From what I can tell these shafts appear to be DOM tubing and the parts diagram shows an alignment pin in the engine adapter. This could pose some difficulty for installation and removal without pulling the engine. But if this pin were replaced with a spring loaded ball it could snap into place without removing the engine. Another benefit to keeping the ends aligned would be to keep from destroying the the coupling if/when the barrels shear.

Yes, I tend to overthink things.

Alan

This is an old thread. If your working on something like a 1X9 you can cut the tube on a 2000 series shaft and slip it over a shortened OEM shaft, drill a hole through the shaft and drive a spirol pin in it. The 2000 series coupler will bolt to the drive cup on the engine. On the pump end you can get an adapter from jeffinpa. On my 149 I converted the engine end, left the pump end factory for now because it's not in bad condition. No need to move the engine, just remove the four 1/4" bolts that hold the coupler to the drive cup and the shaft slides out. Here are a couple pics. :beerchug:

I know this is old but but good information is "timeless".
I missed the slide in shaft modification. Very good.
I don't have knowledge of all things cub cadet and do not know what parts have been changed on later models. I like searching this forum and find out what has been done. As I disassemble my basket case I am making a to-do list. This drive shaft is on the list.
Thx again.