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My best bet might be to just run at 3600 for now. It has a very strong engine, and I suspect it has pulled before. |
If you have all those attachments, then I wouldn't pull it yet..... if ever.
Listen, I've built pulling tractors before for farmers. Built up some diesel pickups too. Some of them wanted tractors/trucks they could use, and pull. For all practical purposes, there is no such thing. You either build it for pulling, or you keep it for work. If you build a tractor that is good on the track, it isn't worth a s**t for working. If you build one for working, it is decent on the track, but isn't competitive. I always told them, if we try and build a machine that can be used for both, chances are it won't be good at either job. I going to say if you want to have a puller, you just need to buy another machine and make it a dedicated puller. Just being honest here. But, FWIW, you can build a machine that has a lot of guts that runs under 4K. Just all depends on what class you want to run in. Back to what I was saying before.... you need to decide what you want. But you really can't "have your cake and eat it too". That's my :TwoCents: :beerchug: |
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stockers need torque. more the better. all that torque is made down in the 2800 to 3400 range. so the thinking you will gain power by running 4000 is not true, set your governor to 3800 to 3900 and don't worry about it. stuff to concentrate on is things that make torque. compression, advanced timing , a good valve job to improve air flow and flywheel weight are common things that help with that. coils, velocity stacks , K&N filters really in the big picture don't do much of anything
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My obsession with 4000 RPM began at my first pull when someone told me I had to get the engine up to 4000. Once hooked up, the guy actually gets off the tractor and wires the throttle wide open. |
all you are doing is making the governor respond to the load quicker, it don't cause it to overspeed. what do you mean by wire the throttle open?
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