Good amount of info John, I'm finding the thread of interest, because the next tractor in the shop after I'm done with the 782 will be the 1811 I drug home.

Cub parts site calls for 4 spacers.

That's what we saw in the paper parts book, just wanted to make sure. Thanks for checking!:beerchug: Can't hardly believe it was running bolted on an angle like that. Actually, 1 rear bolt was missing, other was loose, and the front ones weren't that tight.

Also noticed a double stack of flat washers on each side for the rear grill bolt. It looked intentional, like trying to make the hood, dash and side panels all line up perfectly.:bigthink: Nothing appears to be dented, dinged, or warped--we'll check it real good when we put it back together.

I'd be willing to bet someone ran it into something and bent the front of the frame so they used washers to get the grill to sit properly. I managed to do the same thing to my 1210 years ago and did the washer shim thing to fix it.

Mine has 4 spacers. Believe it to be unmolested.

Can you post a link of the coil info you procured?

Thanks for checking on the spacers.
I got the coil off ebay from a seller called The ROP Shop. No problems with the seller, just the wire ends were next to impossible to put on. The boots are just too small to work with the ends supplied, I've made up countless plug wires and never had this issue. Tons of these coils for sale on ebay, prices are all over the map. There appears to be 2 types of aftermarket (at least)---I'd recommend getting one with the wire ends already on them. Genuine Kohler was also available for WAY less than I can get it through a local dealer.

OK, this one is going to be a fight to the finish!:bash2: While the spark is better and equal since changing the coil, something still ain't right. Got a thread going in the engine section. After ruling out some of the simpler more obvious problems, looks like the heads have to come off to look for a gummy and or burnt valve. Ordered gasket kit today. In the meantime I was going to paint the deck tonight. I asked a while back what everyone was using for paint. A lot of you guys are using Rust-Oleum almond. I don't need enough to justify ordering a case of Valspar. I happened to be in Tractor Supply and what do you know, they had IH white majic paint. I got a couple cans and some primer. The primer went on great. Got ready to paint tonight and NOTHING out of the first can. :angry:Second can only wanted to spit and sputter. :angry::angry:Ok lesson learned--stay away from that crap! I wanted to paint the underside of the deck where the spindles go. Also wanted to paint the underside of the reinforcing plate that goes on top of deck. I grabbed a piece of can of Rust Oleum hunter green that must be 10 years old. Wouldn't you know it, sprayed perfect. That's one way of getting rid of old paint. Tomorrow the plan is to get some Almond. If that doesn't work I'm going to grab every piece of can of paint I have lying around and have at it. We'll just name this one "Dolly" as it would have its own song to match the paint job.:biggrin2: Yeah I know, some of you got completely lost by that last comment.

Sometimes you gotsta do, what you gotsta do John.:bigthink:

Coat of many colors

Got the deck painted--Rust Oleusm industrial almond--spray cans. Looks good enough for a worker. I thought I'd clean up the spindles and reinstall them tonight. Lets just say Oreileys Auto will have bearings and seals for me tomorrow.:bash2: Like I said before, this one is going to be a fight all the way!

I did get the top muffler/heat shield welded up and the grass screen under the bottom of the Cadet welded--at least what I had of it.:bigeyes: Got to get creative to make the missing piece.