still to much juice at the points
 

heys guys, i've done searches for the answer to this question and still no answer, so i'm gonna throw it out for ya'll. i am having a problem with to much juice at the points. i have rewired the tractor from the VR back as per the wiring diagram from the tech section on here. i know the VR, coil, points, condensor, S/G are good BUT when you turn the key on to try and fire it up, it get's so hot at the points that it melts the plastic thus ruining the points. i'm at wits end here so ALL answers will be GREATLY appreciated!!!! i am sorry for being so annoying, but i've tried and checked everything i can think of. thanks, jeff

You have the wrong coil in it. It should have an internal resister coil. Only 6 volts to the points.

The points will only get the Value of the Voltage from the Battery, NOTHING more.

If you are melting the plastic insulator on the points......you have too much AMPERAGE DRAW or LOAD on that circuit.

ok, that makes some sense, i really don't understand it, but..... is that why there was a ceramic type piece that was zip tied to the coil? there were no wires connected to it when i got it, and i got it to run great till the carb started leaking WAY bad without it being connected. thank you very much!!!! jeff

so is what mmzullo said the possible reasoning behind my trouble? i went back and cleaned the leads with a dremel and found the letters stamped on them and went back and wired it correctly, i even triple checked my self and had my dad come back behind me and check. so i know everything is correct. i'm only gonna take so much aggravation from the 100 and "BAM" it's gonna be for sale!!!! thanks Mr. Bedell jeff

All my Kohler Ignition Coils are 12 Volts.

If you have it wired correctly and if you have the correct parts on your ignition system, then you will have NO problems.

I once tried a high performance coil that was not internal resistor, and was that not bad enough, left ignition on upon quitting working on a non running tractor. Came back next morning and battery was dead. Thunk on it a while during the day, with battery on charge (out of tractor) Then I went to hook battery up, and got a BIG ARC. Hooked up positive leads and grounded to metal to see what was up, and found points lead smoking. checked points next and points were fried. So was coil. Lucky was I that battery was weak, and died quick.

Either you have a non-internal resistor coil, the coil is shorted, the condenser is shorted, or the wire from the points to the coil is shorted. It can ONLY be those things to be causing your problem. Should help narrow it down for you. If it were me, I'd go buy a new correct coil and condenser, change the points, and the wire from them to the coil. It could probably use it anyway, and it'll fix your problem :)

I had the same problem one & learned the hard way. I had the wrong coil ! Get the right one & replace condenser & points & youll be fine! You can get them to run on the others but points don’t last long & your engine will run hot! Hold your coil wire about an inch away from your spark plug itl Start & run, that’s a definite sign it’s too hot a coil !

:American Flag 1:

coil
 

I would:beatdeadhorse: check your condenser and check all your grounds, check it with a meter. I would check the values on the primary and secondary windings of the coil. You can find them in the OCC library make sure the points have ground.

i have a new correct coil, condenser, new points (that are now burnt) and a brand new wire from the coil to the points. fact being, ALL the wiring is new and quadruple times checked for accuracy as per the wiring diagram in the tech section on here. jeff

How about some pictures of this setup..???:WWP:

Sounds like the next step, unless the coil was labeled wrong or bad from the factory.

Ok, my Dad and I have figured it out. Everything I was telling ya'll was correct, BUT the coil that was originally on it had a ceramic resistor zip tied on the side, but there were no wires going to or from it. Having a cousin who has a sales and repair shop for mowers (he is WAY high on his parts) looked at the coil and told me that it was a NON-resistor type coil and that it had to have been wired through the external resistor to run and since I didn't wire it through there again, that is why it was burning points and wires. So he gave (yes actually gave) me a coil that had an internal resistor. I installed it, gaped the NEW points, a little gas and guess what????? it FIRED up in about one revolution and purrs like a kitten, absolutely NO SMOKE. Clutch pedal is a little sticky due to crud and what have ya on it. So I thought, while it was running, lets see how well it will pull the turning plow, I hitched her up, went out to the garden, dropped her down and she did extremely well for a neglected, rusty ol' gal!!!! Now, my next little problem is trying to find the next plow day in my area!!!! I want to personally thank each and everyone of you who patiently help me out with what little info I gave!!!!! again, THE greatest bunch of guys a forum could ever have!!! If cubs wasn't a great GT, you guys could make them!!!!!! Below are pictures of the external resistor. thanks again, jeff

The above pictures are of NON Cub cadet Parts.

oh, yeah, i know. that was a PO add on. he told me they do that due to the price difference. but i would just rather have the one it's suppose to have, like the one he gave me, that way there's no problem. jeff

glad you got it figured out Jeff, sounded like you were losing hope there for a bit. Also that is cool it does not smoke, you probably just ironed out the reason someone else had given up on it.

Jeff I'm glad you got it figured out and you might be paying for that coil for years to come!:biggrin2:

Good you got it figured out, BUT, the stock coil has an internal resistor. So, the "correct coil" that you got from somewhere was not correct. Maybe take it and get your $$$ back? If you got it from a dealer, they should have known better.

That's awesome, Jeff! Glad you got it going! :ThumbsUp: