1894, Rare or Worthless
 

I brought it home yesterday evening then started searching the threads but didn't find any comments or questions about the 1864. Being new I may have been in the wrong spot.How do I tell if I have the CCC or MTD or is there a difference. his is my first Cub and I'm falling in love.

There is no 1894, but an 1864. Is that what you have?

I agree, with Todd. I bet, you have an 1864. You posted in the right place. Congrats on your cub! :beerchug:

This is an 1864:
Attachment 17718
Here is some general info on it:
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-trac...adet-1864.html

That's a good heavily built tractor that is just 1 step down from a super. I'd compare it to a 318 Deere.

1864 is right
 

Love or addiction, I know its better than any Garden tractor I ever sat on and I know I'm excited about it and it takes a lot to excite a 67 year old kid.

A little starting problem
 

When the 1864 turn over it turns fast and strong but I have to keep fiddling with it. I think the problem may be with a safety linkage connected to the brake. I see there is an adjustment for that in the owners manual but with Thanksgiving company I havent gotten to that yet. If that's not yet I will be back begging for help, it's great to have someone to turn to.

One MoreCub
 

When I bough my 1864, the gentleman also had a 1862 for sale, It had a lot more hours on it but ran great.I could link you up with the fellow,we are in West Virginia so someone close might be interested. He knows nothing about them because they came thru an inheratance. He was asking $650 for it but don't know if that was firm.

The 1864 is the top of the line, gas powered, "cyclops" standard tractor. It is not a Super Garden Tractor and not a diesel. The term cyclops comes from the single headlight lens cover. It should have an 18hp Kohler Command V-twin with power steering. The 1863, was the same without power steering and then the 1862 you referred to may not have had a Command V-twin but a Kohler Magnum opposed twin and so on. Not 100% sure about that but what I do know is that you will now get the Cub Fever and you will see these machines everywhere. Every little glint of Yellow and White in someones back yard will cause you to clip mail boxes and carry binoculars in your car. Later, you will start to see Red ones, then you'll look for stacks coming out of the side panel and realize its a diesel. Then the buying, selling and trading begins, and there's the storage sheds that need to be built and then the marital difficulties start. Beware!

Weaverama

:biggrin2: Very well said. But, now even my wife and daughter come home telling me about a yellow and white mower they saw somewhere.

My 1864 has been great, I've owned it for 5 years now. Very solid, rugged tractor that turns very tight so it mows like a smaller machine. You're going to love it.

When you say you have to fiddle with it to start, what are you fiddling with? Just the brake? I'd suspect the seat safety switch as well as the brake.

Concern about rear tires
 

Weaverama, your right about the engine and power seering. I do wounder if I'm going to have a problem with the tractor type tires and weel weights, I havent had it in my yard yet. I was told I could switch for the turf tires on the 1862. I dont think there would be a problem but do you know? I know what you mean about the "yellow fever" I have an old 530 Case CK with back hoe and loader and a 555 John Deere loader and I love them just like my kids. Once it's in your blood it never goes away. It's good to be around folks that understand that. I'm thinkng about that 1862 already.

There are several of us that have AGS on our mowers with no problems. If you think you'll have to do pull a plow with it I'd keep the AGS if not switch him or try for a bundle price with the 1864 and 1862. My wife's uncle has 1862 and 1864 (with factory cat0) for years and loves them. I'm saving my pennies to get the 1864.

Turf tires usually equate to crappy traction and spinning tires causing more yard damage than the ags. Everything I own has ags that are liquid filled and I no yard damage ever.

Starting problem
 

Dave, I'm sure I'm shifing my weight on the seat and messing with the brake at the same time.I was also woundering if there might be a safety switch between forward and reverse. This may be the day I have time to fire up the heater in the garage and do some checking. Not a good feeling when you want to show a friend your new tractor and it takes several minuets just to get the starter movin. Thanks for the suggestion on the seat and tires.

There should be 3 interupts on the starter circuit, the brake safety switch, the seat safety switch, and the pto safety switch. That tractor is old enough to not have a reverse safety, plus even if it did it would only shut off the pto, not the engine. Here's what I'd do. First, though least likely, hold the key to start and flip the pto switch on and off and wiggle it, just to be sure that's not the problem. Next, again holding the key to start, bounce on the seat a bit. In my experience the seat switch is the most prone to problems. If you fold the seat forward you'll see a bar with the 2 seat springs on it, the switch is under that, you can hear it click when you push down on the bar with your hand.

My 2084, very close to the identical machine electrically, has an intermittant start problem. I've ignored it because I just turn the key a few times and it starts. I don't know if it's ignition switch or starter solenoid, but I do know it has nothing to do with the safeties. So, it's possible you have a problem with power running through the key switch not energizing the solenoid.

Started looking for the starting problem with my 1864 and found several things not right. Two switches under the seat and neither hooked up or crossed over, there must be a jumper somewhere but haven't found it. I dont think that is the starting problem. Trying to trace the wires from the seat I removed the floor pan and saw a switch hanging low and just to the right of the ignition switch. 3 wires on it a small button and a long hin leaver that would activate the switch by depressing the button. I have no idea where this should be mounted or what it's for but it could be my problem since I couldn't get it to tun over at all last tine I tried. I know pctures would be a big help and sorry I don't know how to send them at this time.

Did you try flipping the pto switch on and off??? maybe the N safety switch is either sticking or not making contact also....just things to look for...easy ones first.

Randy

Here's the guide to post pics. You might have to resize them if they don't upload.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1024

That sounds like a reverse safety switch, maybe there was one on your tractor. I'm sure you tried cranking the starter while depressing that switch, but I doubt it is your problem.

I wonder if you have a bad ignition switch, they do go bad. I believe all the current for the starter circuit goes through the switch, not a great setup. Maybe someone here will tell us how to jump it out, or test it, I'm not sure how.

Could be the switch
 

That would be my luck, taking everything else apart but then isn't it often the last thing you check. The PTO light is on now no mater where the selector is set but it wasnt that way before, now I'm really thinking about that little switch hanging below the dash. I want to wait now till I get to Tractor Supply and try to get some paint to match, since I have the battery out and the seat and floor pan off I see places I would love to paint before I put that back. My big problem right now with pictures is getting them unloaded from the camara card to the computer, but thanks for the help Duke. You guys are quick to give help and I appreciate it.

I'm pretty sure the PTO light only comes on as a reminder of why you can't start. So, if it's on, I believe the PTO switch is either on or faulty. The switch has 3 positions - off (down), on (middle), and start (up, spring loaded). Make sure it is in the off position, the PTO light should go out.

I have an 1864 also, love it. looking for plastics, right side, front and hood. Good luck with yours

I have a 2084 that develops a start problem. When it does not start it just clicks the solonoid but it does not engage. Was told at the repair shop that my battery terminal was not making good enough contact. A couple months ago I had to replace an ignition module and removed the battery and the positive terminal was all corroded. I spent a bit of time cleaning everything up before reassembling and so far the starter kicks right in. I was also told that I should install a relay between the ignition and the solonoid and that fixes that problem too.

Bad contact
 

I know the battery termanials and switch connections along with the relay could be my problem. I have everything painted so I'm ready to start back with it. The seat safety switch was unhooked from the beginning so I will just leave it that way for now and the switch hanging loose under the dash came off two very small rusty machine bolts that if hooked up would put it somewhere near 2/3 speed on the forward speed selector, those two small bolts hadn't seen a nut for years according to the rust. Cub Cadet say they don't have a Manual available for the 1864, the manager a Tractor Supply tried to download one for me but had no luck, local dealers within 100 miles don't have one and a friend at International is now trying to get me one from Binder Books. I have a Service Manual from International for older models,the 5,6,7,and 9 82's but I don't think there is any help for me there.. If anyone has a 1864 Manual you chould cherish it. If I ever get one I will go back and fix these switches that are unhooked.

You won't have a starter relay - what Paul was referring to is a recommended fix for all of us is to add a relay so instead of all that amperage running through the ignition switch, instead the switch just operates the relay and you don't have the drop from trying to push the power through the switch.

I have an owners manual for the 1864, plus a full service manual for the 2084 that I believe also includes the 1864, like I said the tractors are very similar from a systems point of view. I bought mine on Ebay, they are there at times and I think Binder Books has them as well. If you just need a few pages scanned let me know and I will do that for you.

Putting her back
 

I'm slowley getting the 1864 back to gather. he seat switches were unhooked when I got the tractor so I'm leavung that alone untill I get the manual I ordered, I am concerned about the switch I find hanging belw the ignition switch, its a make and break type switch with a long lever that opens or closes the switch. I found the two rusty machine bolts that the switch was mounted on. he way it seems to mount puts this lever across the slot for the forward speed , the selector would pass the switch on the way up but be stoped by the lever about half way down toward neutral. Can you help me with that one.

I haven't seen that one myself, but my guess is it's an early version of the reverse safety switch. It probably was supposed to be set up so when the hydro lever moves from forward to reverse it hits the long metal lever and interupts pto power. The reverse safety switches were not wired to kill the engine, just to stop the pto.

I'm not 100% sure, but that's my best guess.

a Relay is a switch, Realy
 

If the starter solenoid is drawing so much that it hurts the IG. sw. IT is the problem, the batt. in most of these big hp machines are to small IE. 225 CCA, SB 355 or more! when U trouble shoot elec. problems, ISOLATE< ISOLATE< ISOLATE! 1 item at a time!

Let MeTell You About The Nut
 

You guys were right from the beginning, I fretted over a couple switches that ment nothing as far as starting. I left the seat switch unhooked, found out the one hanging below the ignition switch is the reverse indicator, I cleaned up the battery terminals and cables, made sure everything was tight on starter and now it starts like a new one. I even got the deck off and cleaned a ton of compost out of that, finding out the blades are as good as new without even a nick. I will get all that cleaned and painted soon. Fellows I was the nut between the steering wheel and the seat but it was a productive day.You were right about that switch Dave, thats ecactly what it was.

I edited your post. Please do not post how you bypass safety switches.

I am glad that you got it fixed.

Glad to see, you got your cub going. :ThumbsUp:

Don't Bragg to Soon
 

Tried to start the 1864 this morning and just got a click from the selonoid, after a few tries it starts. How should I decide if I need a new one or just the relay I see you posting about?

Aha, now you have exactly the same problem I have on the 2084!

Well, I've lived with the problem for 2 years now. I can't say it particularly bothers me, but I should fix it. From what I've read here I would expect that a relay would solve the problem. It's a cheap and easy fix so I'd suggest you give it a try.

The Relay
 

Dave it just bugs me so much I have to try the relay, I will always wounder when the time may come when it wont start and where I might be when that happens. I read that you shouldn't push the tractor very far if the motor isn't running. How far is to far do you think?. I will do some reading on the relay and give it a try, let you know what happens.

Gave a Battery a try first
 

Dave, I put another battery in (not a new one) and it'sbeen starting ever since but to be on the safe side I have a relay on the shelf.

Great news! The simplest fixes are the best ones for sure.

Well said!

1864 Cub Cadet
 

Since I bought the tractor used, I want to change all fluids, I can only find a synthetic Cub oil is it ok to use regular Hy-Tran oil?

HY-Tran for the hydro.