K241 crankshafts
 

OK here we go;
I have bought 2 Kohler K241AS's at two different tractor shows last summer.
I didn't give all that much for them, and figured I would rebuild them during the winter.

After tearing them down I find they have identical problems, ie bad rings and bad crankshafts. (I love how both sellers told me how they just needed rings).
Move ahead a couple weeks, and I have now bought 2 supposedly good crankshafts from ebay, only to find I now have 4 bad crankshafts (more honest sellers rrrrrr)!

Now for the question of the day, does anyone out there rebuild these little crankshafts, ie build them up then turn them back down to original size, or do I keep searching for used cranks?

All Advice heard and considered;
Cadet Farmer:Irratated:

The crankshafts are bad enough they can't be turned down?

You can get 10 and 20 under rods. I think even a 30 under is available out there.

We have a shop in town that does flame spray to build up shafts.

Most of their work is for electric motor driven machinery.

They do some precision work!!!

But, probably at the cost, it might be better to "continue the hunt"!! :bigthink:

If you have a good machine shop around they can grind the crank and put a bearing insert in the rod. Probably easier and cheaper than buying more cranks.I like the idea of having replaceable rod bearings.

It really doesn't matter since the rod is aluminum...it'll need replacing if it has enough hours on it to have worn out the bearing. Aluminum rods have a finite life, hence why the manual says not to reuse them.

crankshaft problems
 

Well I have miked my collection of cranks, and they measure as follows, 1.59happy happy joy joy), 1.43, 1.39,1.32.

The manager at our local O'Reilly Auto Parts is checking to see if their machine shop can repair it for me back to standard, and what it will cost.

He is a former go-cart racer and general small engine expert, and is generally a very helpful guy.

At least one crank I have will let me build the one engine I need right now, even though I was saving that one for another engine, oh well the search for good parts continues.

Cadet Farmer

I'm beguining to get angry!
 

Ok I decided since I had one good crankshaft, I would resign myself to building the one engine I really need right now.

I installed the good crank into a good block, using a new rod with old main bearings that I percieve to be good, along with good valves and valve train after relapping, torqued the rod, etc, etc,

I put the pan back on, I turned the engine upright and heard a little "tink" which concerned me, however I went on to check the valve timing one more time with the head off.

I then decided this would be an excellent time to install the ignition points and gap them, head off valves and piston in view, wellll it would seem the push rod for the points is not moving, not stuck just not moving.

Now is there any other possibility othe than a bad camshaft? Or do I get to take it apart and start over?

Sure glad I don't know the names or locations of the guys that sold me these engines, because I am certainly losing my Christain attitude.:bash2::angry::Explode::Mad1:

I think first things first I would pull the oil pan cover off and investigate the so called "tink" noise. Doesn't sound normal to me. Second I would take the points back off and hold finger pressure on the point push rod and turn the engine over to feel if there is actual movement. That would be the first on the agenda for me. Did you check the crank shaft end play also?

Checks
 

I pulled the points off and checked to see if the rod moved, and I couldn't feel any movement when I turned the engine over, and yes I checked the crankshaft end play.
Cadet Farmer

Sounds to me like your cam lobe for the points is bad. With the oil pan off you can view all that stuff and get to the bottom of said "tinking noise".

to be continued
 

not more for today, I will attack again tomorrow. first pull pan and find "tink noise" then pull the cam, which means pulling the crank and piston.
And I thought I was retired;
Cadet Farmer:bash2:

to be continued
 

enough for today, I will beguin again tomorrow.

first pull the pan then find "tink noise" then on to the cam problem.
And I thought I was retired;
Cadet Farmer:bash2:

I got a friend in north east that all they do is turn cranks. If you want his info PM me and Ill send it to you.

Like matt said, Id put a new rod in. For what they cost, Id replace it. As far as kohler I think all you can get is standard or .010 under. I remember a long time back, I think it was David Kirk talking about the weight differance between kohler rods and Stens. I have built engs with both, and have had no problem with the stens. Maybe they offer differant under sizes.

building k241s
 

Well for anyone interested;
I managed to build one engine from all my miscellenious engine parts.
Now I can get my 102 running.

I still have another block and head, etc. O'Reilly Auto Parts says they can build up one of my bad cranks and turn it back to standard for $112, and get me a new rod from kohler for another $30, so with all the other stuff I would need it will cost around $300 to build another, still for a fresh k241 it may be worth it.

Cadet Farmer

300 sounds a little low for piston rings, gasket kit and machining.

$300 Rebuild
 

Well the run down would be;
120 to rebuild crank
55 rings and piston
25 gasket set
30 new rod
20 used cam
30 used bearing plate
____
$280
with a few variables, 300 ought to be close
Cadet Farmer

Depending on the rod and the oil pan that noise may have been the oil dipper snapping off!! If you run it like that you will have 4 bad cranks for sure.

Wow thats a good price then! But are you going to rebore the block? Be sure the throw side isnt egged shaped, if it is then youll end up rebuilding it again. Franks brother dose all our boring for us. He decks the blocks too in that price. Then we check and cut the seats if need be.

in response
 

First of all, CHNY I already pulled the engine back apart, and fornd a little clip falling around inside, henceforth the tink, and I do have the right oil pan for the rod I am using.

Now Vince_O that price was determined from list prices at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store, and the ebay for the used parts.
The block I have doesn't need to be bored, and if it did I have my own boring bar.

I worked at a GM dealership when I was a kid, I also raced bracket cars back in the "70s" so I have alot of tools and stuff.

Cadet Farmer;
over and out

Man thats great. Its alway nice to have your own stuff. I had a few bored here at Car Quest and it was like 50 a block. But they hit me with a change over fee to do it. He said it takes too much time to go from car engs to set up for small engs. I dont know cause Im not a machinest. But he dose nice work for me. I took him 4 blocks at one time with the piston and rings so he could measure everything. I like how clean everything is when they are done.