1650 - Tell Me About 'EM
 

I've got a chance to buy a Cub Cadet 1650. It doesn't run - but I am told it will. Problem with the tractor is the iso mounts went bad and the previous owner tried to fit some kind of poly isolators and they didn't fit, so he gave up. I can't vouch for the story.

The tractos is complete, hood is in pieces, but appears all is there. It has a 48 or 50ish inch deck and there is a spare shell that is in much better condition for $100. The price of the tractor is $300.

Looking at the rear of the tractor, it appears to have disc brakes, but they look badly rusted. I think this tractor has been setting in the weather for a long time. It has no sleeve hitch - are these available (used) and if so, what's involved in installing one.

What can you tell me about these tractors, the price, iso mount replacement and other things I can expect to deal with if I buy the tractor and put it back in service. What can you tell me about the engine, hp, hydraulics, etc.

How well did these tractors mow - quality of cut?

I come from a Wheelhorse background, but would like to give a Cub a try and I kind of like this one.

Thanks in advance,
Bill

For me and in my neck of the woods, I would jump on that deal. I have a 1450 and it is one of my favorite Cubs. Now if this 1650 had "dual hydraulics" I would be over there in a lickity spilt.

That's not at all a bad price, just remember the iso-mounts will probably cost you $70-80 for all four. Also, it's nice to see someone else with a Wheel Horse, I just bought a Raider 12 a few weeks ago.

How do you spot dual hydraulics?

Thanks!
Bill

Dual Hydraulic Levers AND hydraulic ports in the front of the Tractor.

$24.95 on ePay. jeff

It likely will be able to be put back in service but how much $ to do that is a better question. Worst case is putting a different one in which looks easy enough.

The deck shell IMHO is over priced considering the work to transfer things over but if you were to want to recondition it (bearings, paint) it would be a good deal.

Brake disks can be bought if need be. Hitches are available - new and used and newly homemade. Most parts are still available. One thing to consider is getting two so you have the spare parts as long as both don't have the same problems. I've got two of them and all disks are alright.

It seems if it's continued in service with bad iso mounts there can be more damage to other parts. One way to tell is the side panel will be rubbed by the air cleaner retaining bolt. That's not the extent of the damage, just a way to tell. They have the Kohler K341 16 hp engine. My grown son thought he could pull harder with his 4 wheeler. We hooked them up and I had full control. Hardly even noticed he was back there. They were tough but now they are old. If they are up to stuff they can't be beat by anything sold at the big box stores. Turning radius leaves a bit to be desired but with how tough they are that outweighs everything else. I think that price is good but remember it will cost to get it up to stuff.

I am quite pleased with how mine cut.

The 1650 with the 16hp Kohler is a beast!
Put new iso's in and do the cradle upgrade and you will be surprised at what it can do!

Not equivalent at all...those are $8 car sway bar mounts that someone is reselling. They will not reduce vibrations very well compared to the OEM mounts, which are worth the extra cost, IMO.

I would buy it, before we tore it apart the 1650 was my favorite cub.

Bill, I have recently aquired a running 1650 with bad iso mounts that I ordered from the dealer today at a cost of $80bucks for the iso mounts, and $30bucks for the snubbers. This will have all the rubber replaced for the engine mounting. Alot of the guys here say it is a must to have your engine cradle braced. Fortunately for me I got one already welded up this past Saturday when I bought a new front axle for mine. Like you, I too am a WheelHorse person. I have 21 years invested in WheelHorse ownership. I love those little red tractors. However I always wanted a Cub Cadet, so about a month ago, one followed me home.
Here are some things you will need to look for when sizing up the overall condition of your 1650;
Look for the serial number. There was a break somewhere around 623,000 where those below that number had 3/4" front axle spindles, and numbers greater than had 1" diameter axles in the front. The serial number on mine is 565,370 which means I had the smaller spindles. The left front wheel bearings were completely trashed, and the spindle was ruined. Fortunately one of the members here offered to sell me a complete axle, 1" spindles, steering linkage, and wheels with tires for a hundred dollars, so that save me alot of pain making the necessary repairs to the front end. Also you need to check the axle for excessive play in the pivot pin area. If the PO did not grease the pivot pin, then the axle can be damaged. Check the king pin bushings where the spindles bolt on to the axle. They seem to easily wear ou there if not greased frequently due to the weight of the tractor with the big K341 Kohler engine pressing down on the front end. BTW, the 1650 may not be built like a tank, but it certainly is built like a tractor (heavy). Oh, and if your king pin area is really worn out, then replacing the bushing may not fix the problem, as the hole in the axle may be wallowed out, so you may be looking at replacing the whole assembly like I did. Check where the pivot pin passes through the chassis for excessive welds, like in the case of a botched repair to that area. From there on out look for bad wiring repairs, worn steering shaft where it passes through the dash, cracks in the body panels, bent or twisted parts of the mule drive system, oil leaks, missing parts, other signs of neglect and misuse.
Sounds to me though like it is definetly worth $300, even as a parts tractor to have as a spare to a better one you buy already running. Oh yeah, on the subject of front wheels, bearings are $28dollars each, and you will need two for each wheel.
OK, I hope this has been a help to you. Good luck:)
Van

I just did the ISO mounts on my 1200 and I pulled the sway bar mounts out and put in ISO mounts. The vibration was just to much for my liking. I agree with Matt. Replace the rag joints and check out the rest of the drive line to make sure they didn't do damage to it by using it too long with the bad ISO mounts.

For $300 I would jump on it but pass on the spare deck.

I have a 1650 with the dual hydraulics and heres where they are located at (circled in red).

[QUOTE=Cub-N-It;113595]Oh yeah, on the subject of front wheels, bearings are $28dollars each/QUOTE]

:bigeyes:

I think you need to shop around a bit...the most I have ever paid for front wheel bearings was about $17 each, and that was for new, USA-made bearings for the 1" spindles on my 1872.

Thank you Matt. You have been most helpful to me during the short time I have been a member of this forum. You are correct, I do need to shop around a bit to learn the best placdes to buy CC parts. Please PM me with suggestions you may have. Any money you can save me will be most appreciated:)
Van

1650 Cub Cadet

OK - Thanks for everyone's help. Another queston. Aside from the ISO mounts, what are other aspects that make this tractor maybe less desirable than other Cub Cadets? I think I can easily replace the ISO mounts, but I'm getting a bit of a vibe the Quite Line CC's may have not be the most desired of the IH designs - just in reading/searching the internet.

I am also interested in all areas of this machine that are preceived as not as desireable and why. I figure if I'm going to buy one, I'd like to know every aspect of the design - good or not so good.

Thanks again!
Bill

Bill, the people that don't like the QL due to the ISO mounts. ISO mounts are a wearable item on the tractor just like a friction disc for the clutch. Most of the QL haters love the 82 series which are easier to work on. With easier access in the engine compartment.

Cub-N-It-

Check to see if you have a Motion Industries or some similar place nearby...that's where I had been getting bearings, snowthrower belts, bronze bushings, etc when I lived in Illinois. They have competitive prices and you can usually pick between USA and foreign-made stuff. McMaster-Carr is also another great place to get a lot of odds'n'ends like tie rod ends, gasket material, wire loom, shims, spirol pins, etc. I also buy a lot of engine parts, air filters, carb rebuild kits, etc. from Tulsa Engine Warehouse. Some parts can be had either OEM or aftermarket, and the OEM stuff is generally cheaper than anywhere else I have found.

I to found lots of worry some things about the quiet lines only i didnt find them all untill AFTER my 1450 followed me home. After all my readin i instantly regreted buying it as i was scared i got myselfe into a money pit. The best thing i did was forget every one of those comments from those people that hated on them. i have been running the 1450 for a few months now and is my primary snow remover. i have since purchased a 1650 that needs some fixing but may swap it for a dual hydro. IMHO they look great run great and work like there is no tomorrow. Buy the thing and don't look back! the ISO's are not that bad of a fix as long as they did not damage other things.

Well said. :beerchug:

So I am going to take a second look-see at the 1650 and will likely take it home with me - thanks for all the advice!

Any tricks to get the machine to roll, engine off? Can you disengage the hydro or is there another way?

Thanks again,
Bill

I have not had to use mine, but sitting on the tractor, there is a lever between your legs on the right side of center. I think you lift and lock it to move the tractor. Just dont move it too fast, like towing it or something. I would not trust the disengagement for that. Someone else here may know better than me, my old K341 so far cranks every time.

If the one your picking up doesn't have the handle that means it's got the automatic release valves installed. My 1650 has the automatic release.

I use my kids old snow board under the rear tires and just slide it.

OK - I picked-up the 1650 today. There was no relief valve lever on the tractor to disengage the hydro, so it had the auto relief valve and rolled fairly easily onto my trailer. I was concerned that given the tractor had seen some time in the weather and the disc brakes were rusty, rolling might be a problem.

The guy I bought it from assured me the tractor ran and all it needs are new ISO mounts - we'll see.

Where do I get the ISO mounts? Is this something I purchase from the forum sponsors or are they a CC dealer item and what can I expect to pay?

Hopefully I'll be pulling the engine in a few weeks and doing a cradle mod too - which I have read about.

The serial numer indicates the tractor was made in late 1976.

Lastly, the tag on the mower deck said 440 Rotary Mower. This deck looks like a 48ish inch deck. I thought the deck for these tractors was a 50C or maybe a 50A. Would this deck not be the original?

Lots of questions coming.

Thanks for everyones input/advice.
Bill

Congrats on the 1650 Bill!

Please post pics of it when you get a chance.

The iso's can still be bought through the dealer. They are pricey though!
Check around but the last I looked they were in the $17-20 range each!

Congrats Bill! Like Mike said your dealer will have them or you can call one of your great site sponsers listed at the top of every page and get them there.

:TTWWP:

You can get the mounts from either a Cub Cadet dealer or the forum sponsors. Plan on about $100 for four new mounts and two new snubbers.

That tag says 44C, and is not the original deck; the original would have been a 38A, 44A, or 50A, depending on what it was ordered with new. Most likely the original one rotted out and it was replaced with a used deck.

Yes Congragulations Bill. And feel comforted knowing should you regret this decision to buy the 1650, just push it back on the trailer and drag it down here to North Carolina. I will take it off your hands:)

It would like to share my garage with my 1650! Maybe Evan won't take that one from me.:biggrin2:

Thank you Matt :)
Just what I need, more places to buy lawn and garden tractor stuff!!! I'll never be lonely again:)
Also Duke, not fair to use Evan as a way to get ahead of me on the 1650.
LOL LOL LOL, I would do the same thing:)

It never hurts to try! :biggrin2:

Check out my 1650 thread (which I promise will get active again soon) and my 1450 thread. I'm betting that the reason your previous owner couldn't get the ISO mounts to "fit" was because of what I discovered on my 1450 (which, as far as I could find, was original at OCC for a "find the problem and fix it" because I read *tons* and never found anyone referencing it.)

The QL's are great machines. My 1450 will be rocking this Spring, and the 1650 will be done part-by-part until it's like a new machine, so I don't have a time forecast on that one...

Great thread - I'll be watching that one for sure.

Thanks!
Bill