1862 motor conversion
 

Here is a conversion/motor swap for my 1862. The M18 that was in this tractor, was giving me problems with the oil seals staying in. I tried everything I could think of to fix this but it still kept leaking oil out the front seal. After 3 new seals, it was getting expensive to fix and I am not the biggest Kohler fan. I like Briggs so here is how I put a Briggs & Stratton flat head in my 1862. The adapter on the flywheel was off a pulley for the gray craftsman series 2 tractors. It fit with some holes drilled out so they matched up to the Kohler bolt pattern. I just ran the bolts the other way and it worked. But I will let the pictures so what it looks like.

Here is the last set of pictures. I have to say I like this tractor a lot more now that the motor is no leaking oil and this Briggs & Stratton has more power than that M18 had, cause it use to be my old pulling motor that it was very competitive and had plenty of power. The PTO is the last thing that needs done but I am getting another Briggs & Stratton that will replace that one. The motor needs moved forward on the drive shaft more then the PTO will line up right. I ran out of patience with this and I don't need the PTO yet. When I replace this Briggs & Stratton with the other one, it will get fixed. Then I can run the mower deck.

Tater

Nice job. Love the twin 50 cals sticking out the front. For the record I also like the Briggs better than the Kohlers. Got a 16HP Vangaurd in my 1210.:beerchug:

Sam

That engine swap is looking real good. :beerchug:

I like it, I would like to have a vanguard or honda in my 1864. That is a project when I get my shop built this year.

On your seal problem. We had a 1811 that did the same thing. I was at a tractor show and Cub Cadet mechanic told me that the engine had blow-by and that is what caused the seal to leak oil.

My wife's uncle was blowing gaskets after a engine rebuild and the shop that rebuilt it used forma gasket and plugged one of the oil passages in the block. The shop took it apart 3 times and never caught the problem. Her uncle and his son tore it down and found the glob and replaced it with a gasket it and got a full refund from the engine rebuilder.

The swap looks good tho!

Thanks guys, I still need to build some heat shields for the side and top. For this model never made to have a briggs in it the swap wasnt all that hard the hard part was getting the adapter to fit, and the front bolt holes I slotted so that was easy.

Methos, I had thought of that and was debating on pulling the motor apart to check but if one of the oil passages was plugged wouldn't the motor lock up since it wouldn't get oil through that passage? Just an idea could be wrong but that makes since. If not than i can pull it apart and check it since I can take my time with it.

Sam Mac its nice to see other brigg's fans I have an 18hp vanguard that needs rebuilt but its going in a puller when I get it done

No it would push the seal out before it locked up unless it was ran after the seal was pushed out.

I bet them mufflers really make some noise.LOL I have the same set up on my 682 with the 18hp command motor in it. Darn thing sounds like a Harley Sportster with straight pipes. Prolly a good thing I don't have a lot of neighbors.

I'd love to hear your cub run, Kelly! I bet, it sounds awesome!

Allen come right on up to Dannville PA. plow day in April and you can even drive it.

Methos, it was ran after the seal was leaking but never when the seal was pushed out. The new seal stayed in it but it leaks were the seal meets the crank like the spring on the inside of the seal isnt strong enough to hold the seal against the crank. I could tear it apart to check everything, what could it hurt really.

Cubs-n-bxrs, I followed you conversion as well I even showed your conversion to a buddy and he is doing the same thing to his 782 so I told him to look at yours for help. Might isnt as loud as your command im sure but it sounds mean and is louder than that M18 was.

The motor should be fine.:beerchug:

You never know, Kelly. I may make it there sometime. :biggrin2:

Tater

This is the swap I did on my 1210. The engine and PTO came out of a 2160, the motor plate, drive shaft, transmission, muffler, front axle and steering box are from a 1440. All bolt in except the steering box.

Nice conversion:beerchug:

I am having problems with mine right now I tried to hook up the charging wire and it got hot and the AMP light came on but as soon as I un hooked it it went out. Thats something Im going to have to look into but until then I just have to make sure the battery is charged or get a new one cause it wont hold a charge half the time. But other than that its all working as it should so far.....knock on wood

You did a great job on the engine conversion, Sam!

Dale, try bypassing the tractor harness like we do on a pulling tractor..if the wire DOESNT get hot and the battery charges, then theirs something wrong with the tractors harness...

Sam, seeing your 1210 conversion kind of frustrates me - I sold our 1211 a few years ago, had bought my 1864 and the 12 HP in the 1211 just wasn't enough to spin the 50" deck well. I should have kept it and turned it into an 1811 or a swap like yours, it was such a nice tractor to drive.

there is one more thing I am going to try before I do that, the motor I got from Brannon has a regulator on it I am going to try that route first as soon as I find the correct wire and if that dont work then its getting wired straight to the battery like the pullers but with a fuse.

Tater

My charge circuit is wired straight to the batt. I replaced the amp gage with a voltmeter.

Dave

The 1210/1640 is a vast improvement over the 1210 kind of like a Cyclops with a metal hood. I'd like to find a Super with the steel hood for my spare CH22.

ok well here is a up date for those who followed this swap. a couple things have changed first the motor in this picture is not the original one that was in it when i first swapped motors it is one i found later on and the motor that was in there was my back up for my puller so i didnt want to use it unless I had two, I got the heat shields built they dont look pretty but they do the job and u cant see them anyway with the panels on, i got the motor to charge so all is good there, got the pto to line up and the deck on it and have mowed with it with no problems, so far everything is as it should be except one thing i cant figure out this motor has a low oil indicator on it but when i hook it up to the light in the dash it stays on when running? no its not low on oil i checked I know the sensor is different cause this motor isnt pressure lubed like the kohler so that must be it? any body got any other ideas why? other than that one thing I like the tractor alot more I cant wait to get more seat time with it this year and winter :beerchug:

Looking good! Thanks for the pic and update.