1210 / 680 won't run correctly with K301AQS
 

Hello All,

I've got a 680 Hydro I picked up a couple weeks ago.

The K301 seems to need some help. I've rebuilt the carb, cleaned it all out, replaced fuel lines and the filter.

The spark plug seems to be fouling itself quickly, all sooty. The motor will not respond to any throttle input, it seems as though its running out of fuel or spark. You can get it to go a little faster than idle, but not much. It almost seems like its only sparking every other time it hits TDC when you've got the throttle turned up.

Should I just be worried about replacing the plug, and hopefully all will be swell? I mean, I've cleaned it off a few times, carb cleaner, steel wool'd the snot out of it, made it all clean again, checked gap; it was smaller than .020" so I brought it out to .035" which is where I read it should be.

:Welcome2:

Have you checked the timing? The plug should be gapped at .035.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4405

I know this may sound silly, but Matt's timing procedure is very difficult to read as I am not familiar with 'points'.

He refers to 'break', I would like a bit of clarification on this if possible.



I read as much as possible from this site, however there does not seem to be a whole lot of troubleshooting information, unless it is buried with 'unsearchable' parameters.

That timing procedure is not a hard process at all. The term "break" Matt is referring to is the moment when the points just start to open. Breaking away from one another.

I've gotten to where I use a timing light that I paid $35 for and that's faster for me to set the timing.

Kelly great way to break it down. Pun intended.:biggrin2:

PS - I got a screaming deal (or so I thought) on a 44A mower deck.



$100

What does it look like under the belt cover?Most times the idler arm is siezed up.Looks good from herefor $ 100

I agree with Lew. Doesn't look to bad for $100.

So Im reading this and if I understand correctly, I need to have the points gapped at .020 anywhere but when the S on the flywheel is visible through the shroud??

It just says first, gap the points at .020, then rotate the motor in the normal direction and look in at the sight hole when the points break.

No the plugs should be gapped at .035 and check out the guide via the link I posted before. Good luck!

He said points. Not plugs.

AJ

The .020" points gap that the kohler manual says is almost never the correct gap. Basically to set you points correctly, you don't even worry about what the gap is. The only thing that matters is that the points open at the correct time which is when the timing mark hits the "S" on the flywheel. To do this, you need a multimeter. The leads need to measure the resistance through the points. If the flywheel is not on or just past the "S" mark then you should have no resistance. What you want is when the "S" mark hits the timing mark, you want some resistance to just start showing. That means your points are opening at the "S" mark which is correct. And as I previously said, the gap means nothing.

AJ

New plug, tried to time it about 20 times, finally went out and got alligators and hooked them up, saw the 0 to infinity change, was perfect. S was right in the sight hole.

So i got to drive it around a little bit. I welded myself up a hitch for my winch and was able to pull my subaru wagon uphill towards the garage without me on the tractor =)


:BangPC:

The weird thing is that I cannot even explain in words how that needed to be. I guess writing the process down is without a doubt terribly difficult. I applaud Matt for what he has written down. I would offer to give some clarifications, maybe not when the laptop is on my chest at midnight

Congrats on getting it running again.

I totally agree, it's a great feeling, getting a cub going again!